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Routes in North Cliffband

Back to Montana S,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Cochiti Classic T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cochiti Ugly T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Empty and Meaningless S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Feminist Men S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grunge Up the Munge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gunning for the Buddha S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Holy Wars S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
La Espina S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Laurel's Climb S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Monkey Lust S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Montana Deviate T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mr. Toad's Wild Ride T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Napoleon Blown-Apart S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Open Mouth Syndrome (OMS) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pickpocket S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Praise the Lunge S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Thief Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thief in Time S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
To Catch A Thief S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Touch Monkey S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown - Boulder Left S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Tom Kalakay & Jean de Lataillade 6/87
Page Views: 970 total, 7/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 4, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This route is known for the diabolical lunge-crux that guards the anchor. However, the climbing is technical and strenuous from the moment you leave the ground. Several interesting moves up the slabby prow will get you pumping before an excellent rest just below the crux.

Its possible to climb the crux statically, but where's the fun in that?

Location

This is on the first prow you will approach from the downclimb, beginning just above a rotten log. Also the third bolted route from the far right end of the cliff.

Protection

5 Bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11c
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.11c
Cams aren't desirable on this climb, in my opinion. (The positioning of the gear may have changed since back in the day, as there are now 5 bolts where it apparently used to be '4 bolts + 1 piton')

The bolt is above your waist for the lunge crux move, so it's easy to go for it. Apr 19, 2009
Rick Shull
Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
 
Rick Shull   Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV  
 
It's been a while since I did this one, but I think there is a good TCU/small cam placement between the fourth and fifth bolts that protects the slight run out. Dec 6, 2006