Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Tom Kalakay & Jean de Lataillade 6/87
Page Views: 1,030 total · 7/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 4, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

This route is known for the diabolical lunge-crux that guards the anchor. However, the climbing is technical and strenuous from the moment you leave the ground. Several interesting moves up the slabby prow will get you pumping before an excellent rest just below the crux.

Its possible to climb the crux statically, but where's the fun in that?

Location

This is on the first prow you will approach from the downclimb, beginning just above a rotten log. Also the third bolted route from the far right end of the cliff.

Protection

5 Bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Rick Shull
Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
 
Rick Shull   Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV  
 
It's been a while since I did this one, but I think there is a good TCU/small cam placement between the fourth and fifth bolts that protects the slight run out. Dec 6, 2006
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11c
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.11c
Cams aren't desirable on this climb, in my opinion. (The positioning of the gear may have changed since back in the day, as there are now 5 bolts where it apparently used to be '4 bolts + 1 piton')

The bolt is above your waist for the lunge crux move, so it's easy to go for it. Apr 19, 2009