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Routes in Lower Wall

Ballerina (aka NoName 6), The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bearded Outlaw S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calico S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cave Route aka NoName 01, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five O'Clock Shadow S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Graybeard (aka NoName 1) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Harvey, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
He's an Angry Elf S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b V6 7A
Jungle Monkey S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moral Decay (aka NoName 4) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
NoName 6.7 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Original Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pass the Ditchie S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Primadona (aka NoName 6.3) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Road Runner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roadside Attraction (aka NoName 5) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roadside Distraction (aka NoName 5.1) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shark's Tooth (aka NoName 02) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Short Sport in the Short Fort S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V2-3 5+
Spinefish (aka NoName 7) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Squeeze, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stay True (aka NoName 3) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Test, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Traditional Values S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twister S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Two Tone S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown 5.Easy S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Yellico Groove S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jeff Achey
Page Views: 77 total, 1/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Mar 28, 2009
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Stick clip the first bolt to protect the easy opening section before making powerful moves to the second bolt and past it before it eases up at the third bolt. The climbing is overhung but has some nice incut edges. You can stop at the first anchor or continue on the nice gray slab to a second anchor.

Location

This is on the left side of the Lower Wall. Go left from where the trail meets the cliff and shortly after it starts climbing uphill this route is located on the steep, grey limestone face. It is just left of the three innominate routes.

Protection

3 bolts to the first set of anchors and 3 additional bolts to the second set. Stick clip for first bolt.

Photos

- No Photos -
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
The upper anchor now features new hardware courtesy of the ASCA and ARI. The old anchor was a rather "gross" affair as seen in the picture below.

Also, despite the broken holds this is still climbing at the 12a/12b level.

Old anchor:



New anchor:

Feb 16, 2011
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
It appears I made the last 12a send of this route. A couple of holds broke tonight, including a large and important hold, now making the route significantly harder than 12a. May 14, 2009
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
The first two bolts were recently rebolted with fat, stainless steel hardware donated by Climbing Magazine's Anchor Replacement Initiative. The bolts were moved slightly because of hollow rock, likely encouraged by the preceding years' freeze/thaw process. Apr 9, 2009