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Routes in Lower Wall

Ballerina (aka NoName 6), The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bearded Outlaw S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calico S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cave Route aka NoName 01, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five O'Clock Shadow S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Graybeard (aka NoName 1) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Harvey, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
He's an Angry Elf S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b V6 7A
Jungle Monkey S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moral Decay (aka NoName 4) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
NoName 6.7 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Original Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pass the Ditchie S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Primadona (aka NoName 6.3) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Road Runner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roadside Attraction (aka NoName 5) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roadside Distraction (aka NoName 5.1) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shark's Tooth (aka NoName 02) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Short Sport in the Short Fort S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V2-3 5+
Spinefish (aka NoName 7) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Squeeze, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stay True (aka NoName 3) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Test, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Traditional Values S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twister S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Two Tone S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown 5.Easy S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Yellico Groove S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mike Yellico
Page Views: 1,902 total, 15/month
Shared By: dbyte on Jun 9, 2007
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Start directly above the finish of Roadside Attraction (or NoName 5 as it's referred on this website). Great movements lead up past a few interesting sections to the top of the cliff. Interesting & varied positions make for an enjoyable pitch.

Protection

4 bolts.

Photos

Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
The bolts on this climb were replaced with ClimbTech WaveBolt glue-ins, provided courtesy of the ASCA. Enjoy. Apr 30, 2015
Mahjoe Mahan  
 
Agreed with the rest of the crew...great protection except a 5th bolt would be nice before getting to the anchors. Overall, a fun little route to make 2 pitches with Roadside if you don't have a 70m rope. Definitely a bit dicey going up the runout of the 4th bolt to anchors though. Aug 28, 2012
jauernigg
edwards, co
jauernigg   edwards, co
Good, easy, fun, cruxy up top. Jan 25, 2010
Chris Archer
  5.9+ R
Chris Archer  
  5.9+ R
Would be a great pitch when linked with Roadside Attraction sans the 15' runout at the top. Quite dangerous (R/X) in its current state if 5.9 is your limit. The new guide (2009) calls it 10a with 5 bolts. The grade is about right, but the bolt count is off. Fun and adequately protected climbing takes you past 4 bolts and deposits you at a contrived runout on some not so positive holds. A fall off the moves to the anchor would be quite serious. Bring small to mid size nuts (2-4 Rock size) if you enjoy being ambulatory and want to continue that trend in the event of a slip. Oct 19, 2009
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
FA: Mike Yellico. May 15, 2009
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
The anchor on this climb was recently updated with stainless steel hardware donated by Climbing Magazine's Anchor Replacement Initiative. I left the two old bolts at the top to make it easier for people wanting to set up a toprope but removed the old chain. May 13, 2009