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Routes in Lower Wall

Ballerina (aka NoName 6), The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bearded Outlaw S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calico S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cave Route aka NoName 01, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five O'Clock Shadow S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Graybeard (aka NoName 1) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Harvey, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
He's an Angry Elf S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b V6 7A
Jungle Monkey S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moral Decay (aka NoName 4) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
NoName 6.7 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Original Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pass the Ditchie S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Primadona (aka NoName 6.3) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Road Runner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roadside Attraction (aka NoName 5) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roadside Distraction (aka NoName 5.1) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shark's Tooth (aka NoName 02) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Short Sport in the Short Fort S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V2-3 5+
Spinefish (aka NoName 7) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Squeeze, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stay True (aka NoName 3) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Test, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Traditional Values S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twister S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Two Tone S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown 5.Easy S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Yellico Groove S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Charlie Moore & DTZ
Page Views: 2,740 total, 22/month
Shared By: dbyte on Jun 9, 2007
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Start on the same block as for NoName 4. Head leftward up the short slab to the base of a right-facing corner w/ a crack. Follow this for 10 feet then make a balance move (read: find good feet) up & right out of the corner to a jug & fixed pin just right of a very small tree @ the start of a left-trending flake. Follow this flake up & left for a short ways then straight up to the anchor.

Protection

Bolts & 1 pin.

Photos

Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
The first bolt on this climb was replaced with a ClimbTech WaveBolt glue-in, provided courtesy of the ASCA. It was getting spun or turned, and the hanger had flattened, presumably from falling on it. Considering that it's the only protection to keep you off the deck (20+ feet below), it seemed appropriate for an upgrade. Enjoy. Apr 30, 2015
Jay Austin  
 
This is a great crack climb with a lot of interesting moves on it. I would call this a 5.9+ for a few of the technical spots. Love this climb. May 17, 2012
PTZ
Chicago/Colorado
PTZ   Chicago/Colorado
Charlie Moore and I put this route up in 2005. It is called "Pass the Ditchie". A lot of rock came out of that crack area on the cleaning of this route. The Piton was there since I started climbing there, a Kor piece maybe. I hope it is enjoyed. Mike thanks for replacing the bolt. I need to contact Dave Pegg about this and a few other Puoux corrections and additions for the next guide. Oct 7, 2010
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
The third bolt on this climb was replaced because it was in super hollow rock, a flake feature. The new stainless steel hardware is from Climbing Magazine's Anchor Replacement Initiative. May 14, 2009
Drew Jagoda Horowitz
Denver, CO
 
Drew Jagoda Horowitz   Denver, CO
 
One of my favorite 5.9s. Great lead. Has some different stuff working for it. BETA: Begins with a small slab, works up through a bomber crack requiring some attention to footwork, then an undercling to a super bomber juggy-crack that runs up to some face climbing through the top. Fairly pumpy for a 5.9. Feb 22, 2009