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Routes in Lower Wall

Ballerina (aka NoName 6), The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bearded Outlaw S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calico S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cave Route aka NoName 01, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five O'Clock Shadow S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Graybeard (aka NoName 1) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Harvey, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
He's an Angry Elf S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b V6 7A
Jungle Monkey S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moral Decay (aka NoName 4) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
NoName 6.7 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Original Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pass the Ditchie S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Primadona (aka NoName 6.3) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Road Runner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roadside Attraction (aka NoName 5) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roadside Distraction (aka NoName 5.1) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shark's Tooth (aka NoName 02) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Short Sport in the Short Fort S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V2-3 5+
Spinefish (aka NoName 7) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Squeeze, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stay True (aka NoName 3) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Test, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Traditional Values S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twister S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Two Tone S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown 5.Easy S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Yellico Groove S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Mike Schneiter and Dustin Dodson
Page Views: 59 total, 13/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Jul 6, 2017
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Five O'Clock Shadow climbs a panel of gray rock above the popular moderates, Graybeard and Bearded Outlaw.

It's possible to climb this in one long pitch, combined with Bearded Outlaw. Or, climb Graybeard or Bearded Outlaw, and belay on the ledge above their anchors at a 2 glue-in bolt anchor. From there, step left and on to the gray slab that makes up Five O'Clock Shadow.

Five O'Clock Shadow has positive holds, good texture, and a crux early on that involves some balance and finding the best holds.

You can stop at an anchor below the edge of the cliff for a lower or you can continue to the top of the cliff where you can belay from above and rappel from chains with rings.

You need a full 60 meter rope to lower or rappel. Watch your ends, and put knots in the ends.

Location

From the ledge above Graybeard and Bearded Outlaw, look up and left for glue-in bolts on a gray slab of great rock.

Protection

4 bolts with 2 anchor options: one on the top of the cliff for rappelling and one below the edge that is more suitable for toproping. You need a 60 meter rope for a lower or to rappel.

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