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Routes in Lower Wall

Ballerina (aka NoName 6), The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bearded Outlaw S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calico S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cave Route aka NoName 01, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five O'Clock Shadow S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Graybeard (aka NoName 1) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Harvey, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
He's an Angry Elf S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b V6 7A
Jungle Monkey S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moral Decay (aka NoName 4) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
NoName 6.7 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Original Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pass the Ditchie S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Primadona (aka NoName 6.3) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Road Runner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roadside Attraction (aka NoName 5) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roadside Distraction (aka NoName 5.1) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shark's Tooth (aka NoName 02) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Short Sport in the Short Fort S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V2-3 5+
Spinefish (aka NoName 7) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Squeeze, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stay True (aka NoName 3) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Test, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Traditional Values S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twister S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Two Tone S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown 5.Easy S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Yellico Groove S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mike Schneiter
Page Views: 440 total, 14/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on May 1, 2015
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Climb a low angle slab past two bolts. The second bolt is underneath a small bush growing on a small ledge. Pass the bush on the right and on to the ledge. Clip the third bolt and then make the first crux moves. You can go straight up but it's probably easier to work left into the arching crack. Climb the crack up and right and at the fifth bolt you'll encounter the second crux, a set of reachy moves with less positive holds. Finish by climbing the shallow corner feature to the anchor.

Location

Right of Pass the Ditchie and left of Moral Decay, start on top of the stone steps at the flat platform from which you can scramble to the ledge at the top of Roadside Attraction.

Protection

8 glue-in bolts and anchor.

Photos

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Cragophilia
  5.9-
Cragophilia  
  5.9-
A fun route but feels a bit easier than both Pass the Ditchie and Moral Decay. Aug 23, 2015