Mountain Project Logo

Areas in Glenwood Canyon

Airy Block, The 5 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Bypass, The 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Cruiser Gully/Buttress 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Dead Horse Crag 7 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
East Canyon 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Fountain Buttress 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Grey Slabs 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Grizzly Creek Wall (aka Mudwall) 7 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Hanging Lake Slab 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Hanging Lake Trail Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Homestead, The 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
International Buttress 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Many Bands Wall 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Neighborhood, The 0 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
No Name Canyon 30 / 3 / 2 / 5 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 38
Puoux 2 / 57 / 2 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 60
Quartzite Wasteland 7 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Shoshone Power Plant Area 0 / 1 / 0 / 18 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Super Puoux 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Surgery Buttress 0 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Unknown Tower 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Elevation: 5,984 ft
GPS: 39.575, -107.222 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 93,590 total, 549/month
Shared By: Bryan Gall on Dec 16, 2003
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

Glenwood Canyon, a spectacular Colorado River cut canyon exposing varying layers of limestone and Precambrian granite, is home to numerous rock and ice climbing opportunities throughout the main canyon and numerous side canyons. Hard sport routes, multi-pitch trad lines, stomach turning aid routes, fat waterfall ice, and silly mixed masterpieces, Glenwood has it all. While much of the rock and ice is found on the south side of the Colorado River, making it more difficult to access, nearly every exit of I-70 offers a climbing opportunity.

The following areas are described from Glenwood Springs west to east: Directly out of Glenwood Springs on the south side of the river (only a short distance from the Brew Pub) are found the thermal hot pots and hobo vapor caves. A few trad lines ascend the limestone cliff, as well as fixed lines into the higher caves. Beware of dead hobos! On the north side of the river before the No Name tunnel, where the water tanks are located, is Cascade Creek. A few short moderate sport climbs can be found here, and opportunity awaits in the larger cave for sick bolted routes. On the opposite side of the ridge, or west side of the No Name Tunnel, is the limestone sport area known locally as the Puoux. Often mistakenly called No Name, the Puoux offers a large number of sport climbs from moderate (5.6-5.10) to sick (5.13d). Located above the Puoux proper in a prominent cirque is the newer Super Puoux sport crag.

No Name Canyon extends north from the No Name exit towards the Flat Tops wilderness. The No Name cragging is on both sides of No Name Creek less than a half mile from the Jess Weaver trailhead. A number of single pitch granite cracks offer a great day diversion. Further up No Name creek a number of crumbly granite buttress offer adventurous rock exploits. In cold winters a few small ice flows form as well. Heading east from No Name to Grizzly. Traveling north up Grizzly Creek one finds the east facing "Mud Wall", home to a few pug ugly "fraid" climbs. Layton Kor mentioned this wall in his classic book. As far as I know, no routes have topped out yet; an unknown party fixed a new line in the spring of 2003. Other walls of varying quality are found further north as well as a few short ice flows.

Opposite of Grizzly Creek on the south side of the river is the killer ice climb known as "Mystery Falls". Right at the Shoshone exit is a small granite outcrop offering a few short climbs. Directly across the river from Shoshone is the fabulous "Hidden Falls". This outlet of Deadman's Creek reliably offers sinker ice and, for those sick in the head types, rotten limestone. Between Shoshone and Hanging Lake is the vast majority of exposed granite in the canyon. The climbing here is on the south side of the river. During high water this makes it fairly inaccessible. Watch the dam at Hanging Lake. If it's open, get a boat or start swimming; if it's closed, hop across rocks (in a cold winter it is possible to cross the river ice). Many routes exist on these buttresses; the highest concentration is on the Fountain Buttress, Flag Buttress and the Hanging Lake Slab. The pronounced dark flat northeast face of the Fountain Buttress is home to the '60s test piece "Sucking Wind". For any route, bring a sense of adventure and extra slings (I'm sick of replacing them all). Also on the south side is the small estuary Devil's Hole Creek which offers the superb moderate ice climb "Ice Pole in the Devil's Hole". On the north side of things, a small pullout on the west bound lane shortly after Hanging Lake is home to the airy block. A few cracks and bolted routes offer some fun, but being right on I-70 detracts from the quality of the climbing. Directly above the Hanging Lake on ramp one finds the classic, though ethereal, Glenwood Falls. This ice (if it forms) falls into sunlight by ten o'clock, beware! To the right of the falls are a few mixed climbs across granite. Above and to the left of Glenwood Falls in the upper limestone is the modern mixed classic Deep Throat. Some very low angle ice (WI 1-2) does form up the Hanging Lake trail as well. Moving eastward from Hanging Lake one finds various layers of exposed limestone. While some traditional climbs have been done the rock generally is of poorer quality. A large buttress above the Bair Ranch rest area does look promising for sport development. One mile east of the rest area, a few sport routes exist on a limestone fin in a small slot on the North side of I-70.

Getting There

A Colorado River cut canyon off of I-70, east of Glenwood Springs. It's kind of hard to miss....

Camping

Eds. Note, camping at No Name in the commercial campground is distinctly expensive. They'll charge $35 for 2 on the river ($5/add'l). They'll charge $26 for 2 for a "group campsite" with a shared firepit ($5/add'l). Note, they have internet access (with a fee). There is no legal camping at the Grizzly Creek exit.

216 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Glenwood Canyon Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Glenwood Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jungle Book (aka Graduation Crack)
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Traditional Values
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed aka The Ironing Board
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pass the Ditchie
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moral Decay (aka NoName 4)
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lone Pine Tree Direct
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lightning Bolt Crack aka The Sickle
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pre Op
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sucking Wind
Trad 4 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
The Pink Face
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stay True (aka NoName 3)
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Youth Warm-up
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kor's Corner
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Urban Cowboy
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
The Birdman
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Jungle Book (aka Graduation… No Name Canyon > E Side > Gray Face area 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Traditional Values Puoux > Lower Wall 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Unnamed aka The Ironing Board No Name Canyon > E Side > Gray Face area 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Pass the Ditchie Puoux > Lower Wall 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Moral Decay (aka NoName 4) Puoux > Lower Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Lone Pine Tree Direct No Name Canyon > E Side > Lone Pine Tree Wall 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Lightning Bolt Crack aka Th… No Name Canyon > Poison Ivy Wall 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Pre Op Surgery Buttress > Main Wall 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Sucking Wind Fountain Buttress > N Face 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
The Pink Face No Name Canyon > E Side > Pink Face area 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Stay True (aka NoName 3) Puoux > Lower Wall 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Youth Warm-up Puoux > Main Wall 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Kor's Corner Puoux > Main Wall 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Urban Cowboy Puoux > Main Wall 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Birdman Puoux > Main Wall 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Glenwood Canyon »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

TylerVaughan Vaughan
Glenwood Springs, Colorado
TylerVaughan Vaughan   Glenwood Springs, Colorado
Good to know. I bet there could be some quality lines over there one day. Jun 26, 2012
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
Tyler, a couple years ago someone went over there and left some fixed ropes on the arch. The residents of No Name complained to the sheriff about it. We never figured out who's stuff it was, but if you go over there keep a low profile and maybe don't leave any fixed gear. Jun 25, 2012
TylerVaughan Vaughan
Glenwood Springs, Colorado
TylerVaughan Vaughan   Glenwood Springs, Colorado
I have been looking at a prow of limestone to the left of No Name Arch forever. Has anyone ever touched this piece of rock? It is a massive, overhanging prow. I think No Name arch looks really cool also, would it piss anyone off (Utes, or city/state) if there were climbing on the arch? Jun 23, 2012
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
Here's a link to a blog post/trip report on splitterchoss.com of our recent ascent of the Mudwall in Glenwood Canyon. I thought some might enjoy it and appreciate some perspective on climbing in Glenwood Canyon. Nov 14, 2007
Isn't this where the climb Suckin' Wind is? That thing looks classic in Vertigo games. Dec 1, 2004
Bryan Gall
New Castle, CO
Bryan Gall   New Castle, CO
Technically the railroad is private property; you can be charged with tresspassing if caught on the tracks. Realistically no one will bother you if you keep a low profile. I know of only one climber who was ticketed a few years ago, but I think he was very confrontational with the railroad workers. If you stay away from the tracks and are on the rock you'll be fine. Although I approach the climbs along the tracks, I generally duck out of sight if a train is coming. I tried opening a dialogue with the railroad a few years back about access but was told in so many words to flip off. Also, the multi pitch climbs are great. The rock is very similar to the Black Canyon but obviously much shorter. A few more difficult routes do pass the unconformity above the granite into the limstone. I've been told that back in the day Lou Dawson and Michael Kennedy did an eighteen pitch climb through the granite and limestone to the canyon rim. I've made a few short stabs at topping out on some of the limestone spires above the granite, but so far have only had the cojones (and partner) for one top out on a limestone fin just south west of the Hanging Lake exit. Dec 22, 2003
There is also a very good boulder on the paved trail to Hanging Lake. I don't know of any names or grades for the problems but I have spent many an afternoon getting my butt kicked and giving my pad a workout. I have never been asked to leave either. The lack of chalk on this rock makes me wonder if any one else has been working these problems. ---Lee Smith Dec 18, 2003
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
Bryan, thanks for adding this area. I'm long been curious: what's the status of access to the granite climbs on the south side of the canyon (in the middle of the canyon), particularly regarding the railroad? It looks like there is some really good (and multi-pitch) climbing there. Dec 18, 2003

More About Glenwood Canyon

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within Glenwood Canyon (335)

Most Popular · Newest