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Areas in Puoux

Boulders, The 1 / 9 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Fault Wall 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Lower Wall 1 / 27 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 28
Main Wall 0 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Two Moon Buttress 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Elevation: 5,831 ft
GPS: 39.562, -107.304 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 46,559 total · 260/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jan 18, 2004
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

How about climbing on big limestone, 2 hours from Denver, with zero approach, and a South to West facing system of crags? Too good to be true? Not. Puoux can offer exactly that, but with the caveat that most of the developed climbing is just off Interstate 70. No good guide has been developed, so this is it until the FA teams get the data assembled. Separate parties with Jeff Achey, Eric Candee, Dave Pegg, Greg Purnell, and others have done the work. The limestone can be excellent to poor, depending on location, but the routes listed here will be derived from the best stone. Many of the routes start right off the ground, however, some very steep and very rad lines have been developed that require some hair-ball approach on fixed cords. Since the limestone sees little traffic, much of it is fresh and sharp - even now nothing is polished (I'll probably regret this comment). This reminds me of the upper sectors of the routes in Rifle that have all of those little scalloped spines on them.

So far, the climbing is confined to the road-side crag, called the No Name Crag (aka Puoux), with Puoux and Fault Walls seeing most development. However, development is also pushing into the higher crags on the hill and across the river in the shadowy grey limestone - time will tell how these shape up.

Getting There

Puoux is just about the easiest crag in Colorado to locate, being immediately adjacent to Interstate 70. Park in the large pull-out 300 feet East of the tunnel at Glenwood Springs. The crag by road-side is obvious. Development is spreading to the higher cliff and across the river.

60 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Puoux

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 17
The Harvey
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 45
Traditional Values
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 25
Road Runner
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
The Test
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 36
Pass the Ditchie
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 43
Moral Decay (aka NoName 4)
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Primadona (aka NoName 6.3)
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 27
Roadside Distraction (aka NoName 5.1)
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 28
Stay True (aka NoName 3)
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 38
Youth Warm-up
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 19
Kor's Corner
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 28
Urban Cowboy
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 6
Experience
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 5
The Birdman
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 4
Fault Line (aka Welcome To Planet Mot…
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Harvey Lower Wall
 17
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Traditional Values Lower Wall
 45
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Road Runner Lower Wall
 25
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Test Lower Wall
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Pass the Ditchie Lower Wall
 36
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Moral Decay (aka NoName 4) Lower Wall
 43
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Primadona (aka NoName 6.3) Lower Wall
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Roadside Distraction (aka N… Lower Wall
 27
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Stay True (aka NoName 3) Lower Wall
 28
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Youth Warm-up Main Wall
 38
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Kor's Corner Main Wall
 19
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Urban Cowboy Main Wall
 28
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Experience Main Wall
 6
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
The Birdman Main Wall
 5
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Fault Line (aka Welcome To… Fault Wall
 4
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Puoux »

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Bryan Gall
New Castle, CO
Bryan Gall   New Castle, CO
As far as I have heard, the only development across the river in horseshoe bend has been purely exploratory. I know a few individuals who have rapped in from above to toprope a few lines. I haven't seen or heard of any bolts being installed. Access to the horseshoe bend has been from above off of the Scout trail and the Forest Hollow trail. These can be reached from the east end of eighth street in g-wood. I would love to hear if anything was being developed... Jan 23, 2004
ac
ac  
Rick Spoot speaks the truth about the chipping on those boulders at New Castle. Unfortunately he writes like he's in 4th...no wait...3rd grade, so no one takes him seriously.

Spooty, if there is extensive chipping going on at these crags then go ahead and name names. And stop using this brain-damaged persona to discuss these important issues. Feb 10, 2004
Bryan Gall
New Castle, CO
Bryan Gall   New Castle, CO
Spooty's comments, while in poor grammar and often denigrating into random insults, do provide a much needed bitch out to any rank bastard who would pick up a chisel. I'm generally amused by his comments and enjoy reading them. The [Poux], though a roadside distraction, [suffers] from chiseling like other sport areas. Please don't bring down a route, sport or bouldering, to your level by chiseling. There's plenty of other rock to be had everywhere even for "pizzle diks". Even a fat ass weekend-warrior moderate climber like myself could put up a route a week in Glenwood Canyon with out chiseling. Why chisel if it's an A0 bolt ladder anyway? Don't you have aiders? Keep spewing Spooty and call bullshit if you need to... Also keep in mind the [Poux] are actually on mine claims owned by private individuals; check out the boundries of public(BLM or Forest Service), private, and city owned land in at the Garfield county [assessor's] office. Feb 10, 2004
Spooty=Matt=Samet. Feb 10, 2004
dbyte
Carbondale, CO
dbyte   Carbondale, CO
I added some routes to the DB last night. Because most have no names & the numbering of "NoName..." was already in-place I numbered each going from right to left. I hope this makes sense. If anyone has any more info for these &/or wants corrections let me know & I'll make the edits.

Also, 1 of the 3 Innominate climbs (the left-hand 1 I think?) had a large chunk fall off of it in the past few weeks. It contains 1 of the route's bolts. Not sure if it's still climbable, but probably not safe without the bolt. Jun 10, 2007
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
Actually that chunk of rock with the bolt fell off at some point last summer. I first noticed it last August, but it may have fallen off in the spring, according to the speculation of some. At one point, I heard rumors that it came off when someone fell on the bolt, but I'm quite positive that the story is b.s. Jun 10, 2007
There is now a guidebook. This whole page needs to be re-done. No Name and a # doesn't really help at all. Sep 23, 2008
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
With the generous support of Climbing Magazine's Anchor Replacement Initiative, the Roaring Fork Climbers Coalition is spearheading an effort to replace bolts and anchors at the Puoux this winter. We want to update bolts that are showing visible signs of degradation caused by the seeping nature of the limestone and replace them with new stainless steel hardware. We'll begin with the more popular routes at the Puoux as well as bolts and anchors in greater need.

If you have any suggestions for routes, bolts or anchors that are in need of some care, please let us know. You can email suggestions to badbolts@splitterchoss.com or you can PM or email me through this site.

Thanks. Nov 14, 2008
I am cross-referencing info on the Puoux in the new Rifle Mountain Park and Western Colorado Rock Climbs guidebook along with info from Mtn Project and splitterchoss.com. Can someone please clarify for me which info is newer updated? I thought online was a good source, but there is much more in the new book than there is online, but not all that is online appears to be in the book. I am new to leading and learning the ropes (no pun intended), so perhaps I just need some processing time to put the pieces of the puzzle together, but any advice anyone has is welcome in the meantime. THanks! Aug 8, 2009
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
The stuff on splitterchoss.com is getting old. I haven't updated it since the new guidebook came out. The info in the guidebook should be pretty spot on, that's what I'd go with. Aug 9, 2009
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
The stuff in the guidebook is newer than the stuff here although there are some new climbs (added by Evan) that aren't in the guidebook. That may be part of the confusion. Plus, because many of the climbs don't have known names, mp.com has a bunch of numbers that can be a little confusing. Aug 18, 2009
PTZ
Chicago/Colorado
PTZ   Chicago/Colorado
On the Two Moon Buttress, there is a route missing. The center route up the center of the wall. Ten or eleven bolts of good climbing out a roof 20 feet right of the big flake. It's Pete Heck's route in 1992 maybe. Seeking Clarity is the title. It was like 10c and has broken down to about 11a/b. The bulge is the business with some cool moves then up the sustained wall. 60 meter rope recommended. Please add it to the roster. Thanks Oct 27, 2010
Blake M  
Did anyone find an orange Grigri with a brown BD keylock? I think I left it around the base of Youth Warm-up on 2/16. Feb 17, 2013
davedad
Carbondale, CO
davedad   Carbondale, CO
There is a pair of Miuras at the bottom of Youth Warm Up. They look as though they were forgotten in the last couple of days. We left the there figuring the owner would come back for them.
-Dave Apr 10, 2013
Julius Grisette
Carbondale
Julius Grisette   Carbondale
The mining claim has been sold to "Mike Fraiser." Does anyone know him or the plans for the area? Mar 21, 2018
Dustin B
Steamboat
Dustin B   Steamboat
coloradowesternslopegrotto.…

Looks like it isn't closed, but you have to get a waiver and schedule (?) with the owners. I assume this includes Hole Wall and Superpoux, etc.... Jul 28, 2018

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