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Routes in Lower Wall

Ballerina (aka NoName 6), The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bearded Outlaw S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Calico S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cave Route aka NoName 01, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five O'Clock Shadow S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Graybeard (aka NoName 1) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Harvey, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
He's an Angry Elf S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b V6 7A
Jungle Monkey S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moral Decay (aka NoName 4) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
NoName 6.7 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Original Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pass the Ditchie S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Primadona (aka NoName 6.3) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Road Runner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roadside Attraction (aka NoName 5) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roadside Distraction (aka NoName 5.1) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shark's Tooth (aka NoName 02) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Short Sport in the Short Fort S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V2-3 5+
Spinefish (aka NoName 7) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Squeeze, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stay True (aka NoName 3) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Test, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Traditional Values S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twister S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Two Tone S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown 5.Easy S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Yellico Groove S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport
FA: Mike Yellico
Page Views: 2,866 total, 15/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jan 19, 2002
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Route-5 has two very short pitches. Begin exactly where the trail meets the cliff. The upper pitch is far and away the better of the two.

Per Drew Jagoda Horowitz: This short route is the first you arrive at from the parking area at Puoux. Apparently for a long time it was rated as 5.8 or 5.9. However, apparently a good amount has been chipped off, since this is a solid 5.10a as listed in the most current guide. You can link this with the pitch above it (another short 5.10a) with a 60 meter rope. Easily located, but super waxy holds!

This is a combination of 2 submissions for the route.

Location

Per Drew Jagoda Horowitz: It is easy to locate as it is the first route you'll see once you get onto the trail from the parking lot. You can scramble down from the top if you don't want to rap or be lowered.

Protection

Several draws and a rope. Per Drew Jagoda Horowitz: 3 bolts, long draws if you TR. Per Mahjoe Mahan: 4 bolts.
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
The last bolt on this climb was replaced with a ClimbTech WaveBolt glue-in, provided courtesy of the ASCA. Enjoy. Apr 30, 2015
4 bolts, not 3. Aug 28, 2012
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
FA: Mike Yellico. May 15, 2009
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
The third bolt was replaced and the first two bolts were updated and moved slightly with permission of the first ascentionist. New stainless steel hardware was from Climbing Magazine's Anchor Replacement Initiative.

Here's the link to the discussion about this route's bolts (forum post) . Check it out if you want to see what happened to the third bolt. May 12, 2009
jasonRFV
  5.8+
jasonRFV  
  5.8+
Someone's been busy on this route (Roadside Attraction)...it has been modified sometime since late last fall. The culprit chopped some handy-dandy edges & ledges at the (once) thoughtful opening moves, and at the (once) crux move at the top of P2 (Roadrunner). They also saw it necessary to knock a couple into the middle of the Roadrunner pitch, amidst a sea of great, sharp limestone edges. I suspect "they" may be manufacturing an easy M climb, though I'm not sure why; the tell tale crampon scratches on P1 are pretty hard to miss. Maybe they were trying to make the climb go at a true 5.8 (I would argue that the original line went harder than 5.8). As local ice and rock climbers, my partners and I are pretty upset by this retro-chipping. Sure, some routes at the Puoux are known to be chipped, and Roadside Attraction is nowhere near a classic route, but it does not change the principle: it's not ok to alter the rock to your ability or desires. There are quality natural routes up there, and it would be a shame to see them defaced as well. Apr 28, 2006
P1 is short and mostly 5.8 with a .8+ move near the top, being a painful hand jam crux. Can easily combine both pitches with a 60 meter rope, however the second pitch is much harder than the first, going at 9 or 9+. Apr 20, 2004
First pitch is steep and juggy but polished, felt closer to 5.9 than 5.8. Second pitch is prettier, not polished, and easier than the first. It's not hard to combine both in one lead. Aug 9, 2002