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Routes in Bug Barn Dance Wall

Bosko Loves Barbed Wire S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cambrian Grey S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Darkness at Seven S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Desperate Land S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dreamin' of Reamin' S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lacy Doggie Panties S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Looking For A Legacy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Necrobeastiality S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Raid S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Redneck Genocide S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Squid Orgy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Suicidal Yet Depraved S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Phil Reynolds and Matt Crawley
Page Views: 112 total · 1/month
Shared By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Mar 12, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Surprisingly fun route to the left of Raid. I thought this route was a slight bit overrated in the Ruckman guide. But hey, .10c or d? who really knows?

The start is fun on a steep arete section and then you get the typical slab between steep steps common in the middle of Bug Barn. Quite enjoyable and not as stiff as many of the other lines here.

Protection

9 bolts and chain anchor.

Location

Starts on a little knoll higher than the surrounding cliff base. The third bolted line from the right on the main (southwest) face of Bug Barn.

Photos

Tim Moore
  5.10c
Tim Moore  
  5.10c
Good route. Well bolted except for the first part you have to climb with a high first bolt but after that your fine. Great belay spot with a tree to rest in. Good climbing over both roofs with the second being much harder to get over especially with poor hand holds. It is very well bolted so you never have to worry about a hard committing move. Good solid rock a little slick because it's lime stone but a classic area and a must visit for rock canyon May 13, 2014
Jon Bitter
Waco, Tx
  5.10
Jon Bitter   Waco, Tx
  5.10
Great holds the whole way up with a few committing moves on less stellar holds to reach the next jug. fun. May 28, 2010
John Ross
Wasatch Front, UT
  5.10b
John Ross   Wasatch Front, UT
  5.10b
Each roof was a blast. I especially liked making committing moves and being rewarded by good holds above. Add to it good rock and a quiet location to really make this a classic route. Apr 7, 2009
As I said in my description, I feel like it is overrated as well. I have no problem with calling it 5.10b. Apr 7, 2009
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
  5.10b
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
  5.10b
I really, really liked this route (and I thought it was a bit easier than Lacy Doggie Panties, so if that one is .10c, then this one is... .10c- ?) Apr 6, 2009

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