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Routes in Bug Barn Dance Wall

Bosko Loves Barbed Wire S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cambrian Grey S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Darkness at Seven S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Desperate Land S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dreamin' of Reamin' S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lacy Doggie Panties S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Looking For A Legacy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Necrobeastiality S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Raid S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Redneck Genocide S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Squid Orgy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Suicidal Yet Depraved S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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The Bug Barn Dance Wall is one of the excellent, moderate limestone crags in the canyon. It holds close to a dozen routes all between 5.9 and 5.11.

The approach is easy, unlike some of the limestone crags in Rock Canyon, and the walk up is a nice hike. Once at the base, you will pass some chossy rock before arriving at the main face, a south- and west-facing affair with a complex roof system in the middle.

Most routes climb on good edges, all are bolted, and eight to ten draws will suffice for everything on the wall. Overall: an excellent crag composed of good, solid limestone, and well-protected throughout.

Getting There

BBDW sits about a mile up from the Rock Canyon parking, 100 yds past the water fountain on the right, and on the north side of the canyon. The crag just about reaches the stream and lies opposite the Bosko Wall.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bug Barn Dance Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Good limestone wall with lots of moderate climbs. The concensus was that most of the routes where harder then what they where rated as in the guidebook. Lots of crimpy stuff. I don't usually like slab, but the rock here is super great for smearing. Best to do in colder temperatures or in the morning, cause the rock heats up quick in the afternoon sun. Aug 23, 2008
Jon Bitter
Waco, Tx
Jon Bitter   Waco, Tx
This is my favorite wall in the canyon. Flat and shaded belay areas, great rock, all exciting climbs, and I have rarely run into other groups at this wall. Definitely worth spending a few mornings here. May 25, 2010
Anson Call
Provo, UT
Anson Call   Provo, UT
I'm curious... How did this crag get its name? Does anyone know? Apr 11, 2013
Having climbed all over rock canyon. Literally all over in search of sun or shade or a great belay spot or no people and consistent routes this is my favorite. It is a little ways up there and I have never seen anyone there ever. The routes are some of the best in rock canyon. The rock is awesome. Majority .10 and .11s Fun roofs, crimps, large jugs, ledges, it has everything except maybe crack climbing. Great shade spot to belay in along almost the entire wall. The upper two thirds of the wall will be in the sun past about noon so it gets kinda hot during the summer time. Not that many bugs really so I don't know why it's named thus. A must check out for the canyon May 13, 2014

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