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Routes in Bug Barn Dance Wall

Bosko Loves Barbed Wire S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cambrian Grey S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Darkness at Seven S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Desperate Land S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dreamin' of Reamin' S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lacy Doggie Panties S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Looking For A Legacy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Necrobeastiality S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Raid S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Redneck Genocide S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Squid Orgy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Suicidal Yet Depraved S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Phil and Andy Reynolds
Page Views: 111 total, 1/month
Shared By: Chuck on Sep 7, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

The crux is the gaston move near the top on the noticeably lighter colored rock. Shares the first bolt with Suicidal Yet Depraved.

Location

Third bolted route from the left. Its anchor and the ones to its right are lower than the surrounding climbs.

Protection

7 Draw + anchors
Bolted, Chain anchors

Photos

Tim Moore
  5.10c
Tim Moore  
  5.10c
Nice run. Rather short I agree since good rock keeps going up and compared to the other routes around it. I don't know about the Gaston move near the top don't remember doing it but I do remember the large Gaston to the far reach left getting past the second bolt. It's definitely the toughest move for the route in my opinion May 13, 2014
Canyon Copa  
 
The crux for me was early, around the second or third bolt I think, so to each his own. I love all the routes on this wall, and this makes a great warm up/cool down. Jun 1, 2012
darrell hodges
  5.10c
darrell hodges  
  5.10c
The white colored rock near the top was the crux for me.
I don't know how you would do a gaston move at the top as mentioned in the route description. Maybe that was my problem. I was sidepulling when I should have been gastoning?
Fun route. Apr 10, 2009
The crux for me is the leftwards moves getting off the little ledge near the bottom. Mar 12, 2009
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
I enjoyed this climb. Kind of weird that it stops right in the middle of the face, though. There's still more rock to climb. The gaston move down low might be technically the hardest, but the crux for me came moving through the white rock band near the top. Mar 25, 2008