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Routes in Bug Barn Dance Wall

Bosko Loves Barbed Wire S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cambrian Grey S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Darkness at Seven S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Desperate Land S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dreamin' of Reamin' S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lacy Doggie Panties S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Looking For A Legacy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Necrobeastiality S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Raid S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Redneck Genocide S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Squid Orgy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Suicidal Yet Depraved S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Christian Burrell, Tristan Higbee
Page Views: 1,599 total, 13/month
Shared By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Sep 1, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

The second pitch (or extension) to Cambrian Grey. The name came from the guys at MountainWorks. When we were discussing the possibility of the route, the guys mentioned something about it adding to the legacy of a historic route.

It always seemed strange that Cambrian Grey ended so suddenly in the middle of the slab. We peeked over the roof several times and thought, "wow, that looks like fun." The resulting route is a great addition to an already great route.

Look/feel for some small but positive crimps to get past the first overlap. Moderate slabs and small short challenges typify this line.

It is very possible to do the whole thing as one long pitch.

  • **I changed the rating given all the comments that it was underrated. There used to e a nice flake for your hand that made the initial roof pretty mello. But it may be gone now. Once there is a consensus, we can officially get the rating right.

Location

Second pitch of Cambrian Grey right side of the wall. Two single rope raps or one double.

Protection

NINE bolts and chains

Photos

Alex Temus
Small Town, USA
  5.10+
Alex Temus   Small Town, USA
  5.10+
I would recommend removing the first bolt and replacing it with one, maybe two bolts. The first would be a little lower and slightly further right than the original first bolt - meant for a traverse. Then the second would be 5 or 6 feet to the right and roughly the same height as the current first bolt.

A minor edit: because P1 is a different, unique route, shouldn't this be considered a one pitch route?

Thanks for putting up the route and following up on its changing condition! May 4, 2017
Hey guys, so I am wondering about the line now with all the comments about the rating. Can we get a consensus? Also, how well do you feel it is bolted for the difficulty now? Do we need to get anything changed out? New bolts? Move bolts? replace the chains? May 3, 2017
Alex Temus
Small Town, USA
  5.10+
Alex Temus   Small Town, USA
  5.10+
Unless you feel like using the friction of a featureless face (seriously, nothing there for about 5 vertical feet, not even small crimps) to get over the initial, small roof, you need to go right about 6-8 feet from the belay to start the route.

The two roofs on this route are fantastic! Loved them both, I don't think they are 5.9 in difficulty, not even close. This route felt more difficult than Cambrian Grey (which. I felt, was closer to a 10a or b) and I enjoyed it more as well! Awesome route! May 2, 2017
Owen Witesman
Springville, UT
  5.10d
Owen Witesman   Springville, UT
  5.10d
The initial small roof is by far the hardest move on these two pitches. I could see a couple of spots where there might once have been a key hold that has broken. If the rest is .10c, that's .10d or harder. Beyond that move it stays interesting for a couple of moves and then gets easy. The larger roof is just pure fun. Sep 8, 2016
There at least used to be a nice flake for your right hand that made getting you foot high pretty easy. Very possible this flake broke off by now. Oct 16, 2014
Tim Moore
  5.10b
Tim Moore  
  5.10b
Great addition to the route especially with both overhangs. To get over both is not a .9 move. A 10b/c maybe. It gets easy after the second bolt probably down to a .7 to the chains. A 70 meter rope will not get you from the ground and back but it will get you back to the chains at the top of the first pitch. A little dirty as well needs some traffic to clean it up. Definitely worth it though especially with both overhangs. Very well bolted. The first over hang must have lost a hold because the rock looks newly broken and makes the move much more difficult. The second overhang is large and requires a hefty pull move but the holds are their. A worthy addition to the bottom crimpy route May 14, 2014
I tried but could not get over the first ledge! maybe I was tired from climbing Cambrian Grey but this is not a 5.9 move. At least not the move I was trying to make! Oct 19, 2011