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Routes in Bug Barn Dance Wall

Bosko Loves Barbed Wire S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cambrian Grey S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Darkness at Seven S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Desperate Land S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dreamin' of Reamin' S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lacy Doggie Panties S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Looking For A Legacy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Necrobeastiality S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Raid S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Redneck Genocide S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Squid Orgy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Suicidal Yet Depraved S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Grant & the professor, October 1991
Page Views: 1,106 total · 6/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Aug 3, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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First route you come to after crossing the stream is Darkness at Seven. This is a well protected 5.9 on nice limestone and rounds out the crag nicely. For my personal taste, I think having a range of difficulty at a crag opens it up to more climbers and gives more people in a party a chance to climb at the same crag. So, I'll give DAS two stars for what it does for the climbing here. And it was done well.


Half a dozen draws and a rope.


On the more southward-facing bit of BBDW, around the corner to the right of all of the other routes. Using the normal approach crossing the stream, this route is directly ahead while scrambling up the hill.


Logan Bradford
American Fork, UT
Logan Bradford   American Fork, UT
I didn't like this route at all. Maybe it was because I didn't know any of the beta for it, but it felt much more like a 10b than a 5.9. Overall, it just seemed contrived and forced. Not worth your time if you're up there. Crappy belay station to boot. Sep 5, 2016
Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
Jeremy Noring   Salt Lake City, Utah
To add to the "this needs to be fixed" comments, the anchor on this is pretty bad, as is the bolting in general. I'd avoid until someone fixes this situation. Jul 27, 2014
Tim Moore
Tim Moore  
Interesting little route it's pretty over grown right now at the belay spot with a tree in the way of the first bolt. The belay spot is pretty steep and right in the sun the entire day. In my opinion the route isn't worth it especially the webbing around the bush as the second anchor chain being significantly higher than the other anchor bolt. This definitely needs to be fixed. May 14, 2014
This was the second route added to the crag (the first being Cambrian Gray). FA was by myself and Grant (forgot his last name) in October 1991. The route name is "Darkness at Seven" which was a spoof on "Darkness at Noon" and related to the fact that it got dark fairly early during the FA effort, which took several days of hand drilling using homemade hangers. The route name got corrupted during transmission to guidebook author Bill Ohran.

Tom Caldwell had an electric drill and helped with a couple of holes, but his battery died and we were too lazy to hand drill more belay bolts, hence the tied off sagebrush at the anchor. Route was done ground up, hence choice of cliff with big halfway ledge. Jun 1, 2013
Tyler McBabe
SpanishFork, UT
Tyler McBabe   SpanishFork, UT
Fun Warm up route. It looked like there was another easy fun route to the right of it. Perhaps someone should make a second route there, eh? Eh? Jun 1, 2012
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
This is one of the first routes I climbed in Rock Canyon 8 or 9 years ago. I hated it at the time, but got on it again today and actually really enjoyed it. The big rest halfway up is a bit of a buzzkill, but I still thought the route was fun. Pretty good rock and some neat little holds.

The landing still kind of sucks and the hangers are kind of funky (some of the last remaining aluminium angle hangers in the canyon?), though.

There was a fair amount of webbing around the bush at the anchor and it looked good. Apr 16, 2011
The anchor consists of an aluminum hanger and a tied off shrub. You might bring along some webbing. Nov 2, 2009
Could really use a nice landing. Someone, work on this for an Eagle project or something. This climb starts out interesting, then an unfortunate huge rest that kills the coolness factor. But it gets tough again pretty quick. If you have hauled some gumby up with you the face just right of this is a easy/fun TR. Sep 1, 2007