Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Bug Barn Dance Wall

Bosko Loves Barbed Wire S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cambrian Grey S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Darkness at Seven S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Desperate Land S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dreamin' of Reamin' S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lacy Doggie Panties S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Looking For A Legacy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Necrobeastiality S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Raid S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Redneck Genocide S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Squid Orgy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Suicidal Yet Depraved S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 105 ft
FA: Phil & Andy Renolds
Page Views: 2,278 total, 18/month
Shared By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Sep 1, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


36 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Awesome awesome awesome! Without a doubt, one of the best in the canyon.

Protection

Ten bolts, chain anchors.

Location

Fifth bolted line from the right on the main face. Climbs to the left of Dreamin' of Reamin', which goes over a roof about 20 feet up.

Photos

Tim Moore
  5.11b
Tim Moore  
  5.11b
Probably close to the best route in the canyon. Very well protected. A fun quasi roof to go over/around and then very crimpy holds with bad feet between awesome jugs/ledges that give great rest. Awesome belay shade spots and the route is in the sun so if it's hot out might not be the best place. May 2, 2014
Canyon Copa  
 
Fantastic route. Very long with fun moves and good rests. Clipping the last bolt was the hardest section for me. It was very balancy and pulling the rope up through all the draws almost threw me off. After clipping the last bolt there is a slopey, boulder-type top out where I just had to mantle with my hands and smear with my feet to get to the chains. Also it's not quite 105 feet, a 60 meter rope is plenty long with a lot left over (and that's without the stretch). Jun 23, 2012
Kyle Hollenback
Provo, UT
Kyle Hollenback   Provo, UT
I've been climbing for a little over a year, and leading has always scared me. This route was the first 5.11 I've led outside. The features are really fun, and the holds and protection are right where you need them. Didn't get the onsight, but I'll be back for sure! There's no single crux, it's just long and sustained. One of the best routes I've done in the canyon. TR would be hard because of rope drag near the chains, but it's a great lead. Nov 4, 2011
One of the best 11b's in the canyon! You can get a nice rest after each tough part. May 21, 2008
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
Great climb! Good moves on crimps. Onsighted it, but it was a definite struggle. Technical crux might be down low, but I had to fight hardest to not peel off at the last bolt. Good rests on giant holds appear right when you think you're about to fall off. Mar 25, 2008