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Routes in Bug Barn Dance Wall

Bosko Loves Barbed Wire S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cambrian Grey S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Darkness at Seven S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Desperate Land S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dreamin' of Reamin' S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lacy Doggie Panties S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Looking For A Legacy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Necrobeastiality S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Raid S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Redneck Genocide S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Squid Orgy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Suicidal Yet Depraved S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Phil & Andy Renolds
Page Views: 230 total · 2/month
Shared By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Sep 1, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

If you think you are really solid on 5.10 slabs, this is your route. A really thought-provoking move past about the third or fourth bolt (I think). The roof kills most onsite attempts, but there is a really easy rest right below it that you can scan the move from.

Protection

All bolts

Location

The left-most route on the main wall.

Photos

Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
I love this climb! This was my first 5.11 a few years back. Really fun move over the roof--really balancy! Mar 25, 2008
Dastruption  
 
Great climb!!! Had to really trust the rubber coming over the roof. It seamed like there were a lot of crimps while I was pulling the roof I had to just choose two and go for it. I will for sure do this one again. Apr 24, 2008
Bad Sock Puppet
  5.11a/b
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.11a/b
Sketchy slab if you go left, or you can follow the finger crack along the enormous plate on the right which makes it much much easier. The roof is probably more like a 5.11b move. Very small and shallow pockets to pull over roof and up to chains. Aug 23, 2008
Ryan Stott
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11a/b
Ryan Stott   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11a/b
A really fun climb that requires a lot of balanced footwork. There are 2 crux sections, a lower and upper. The upper one with the roof killed my on-site attempt.

--beta spoiler--
when you are at the roof, I grabbed just right of the bolts. There is a hidden two-finger pocket that was key to pulling over. Jul 26, 2010
Canyon Copa  
 
Really fun route with a thin crux section early and an awesome roof just before the finish. Huge committing move on tiny crimps to get your feet up over the roof and reach the heaven sent jugs above. May 29, 2012
Sunny-D
SLC, Utah
Sunny-D   SLC, Utah
This route when first done was rated 5.10d why has it been upgraded?
Is it like the trend going on elsewhere--grade drift... Aug 23, 2012
Logan Bradford
American Fork, UT
  5.10d
Logan Bradford   American Fork, UT
  5.10d
I got on this last year and couldn't manage to pull the roof. Today, I pulled right through it — hard pull, but the holds are all there. I was with someone I had never climbed with before, so I had set up a TR after doing the route to the right, but I'm excited to go back and lead it.
I really wanted to use that ginormous flake to the right of the 2nd or 3rd bolt, but couldn't figure out a way to get over there, so I just edged on the stuff out to the left. It seemed like there was a better way to get through that section, but I just couldn't figure it out. Overall, super, super fun route. Loved it. Sep 5, 2016

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