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Routes in Bug Barn Dance Wall

Bosko Loves Barbed Wire S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cambrian Grey S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Darkness at Seven S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Desperate Land S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dreamin' of Reamin' S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lacy Doggie Panties S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Looking For A Legacy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Necrobeastiality S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Raid S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Redneck Genocide S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Squid Orgy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Suicidal Yet Depraved S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Chris Laycock
Page Views: 1,439 total, 8/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Aug 3, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Grey limestone or grey beards? Cambrian Grey climbs up solid, limestone edges to a point below the roofs and it is the second climb you encounter after crossing the stream. A good, well-protected route.

Protection

8 bolts and chains.

Location

The right-most line on the main face.

Photos

Alex Temus
Small Town, USA
  5.10a/b
Alex Temus   Small Town, USA
  5.10a/b
Much easier than expected, there was some chalk that helped with route finding. Jun 4, 2017
Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
Jeremy Noring   Salt Lake City, Utah
A really good route; maybe a bit stiff for the grade if you're not comfortable with technical slab. Perfect rock. Jul 27, 2014
Tim Moore
  5.10c
Tim Moore  
  5.10c
Very crimpy very balancy especially after the first few bolts. Well bolted though. A little bit of a high first bolt. This will test your foot work and use of crimps. The holds are their they are just deceiving and hard to find. Good belay spot on a rock in the shade. Beautiful view as well. Great route. The second pitch is awesome as well. Highly recommend it especially for those who love climbing over roofs. May 14, 2014
Tyler McBabe
SpanishFork, UT
 
Tyler McBabe   SpanishFork, UT
 
I agree with Jason Billings on that. But .10d or .10c it's an AMAZING route. It was pretty intense as far as footwork goes. It also felt like a few holds may have broken off but that could just be me being weird. Jun 1, 2012
Alma Madsen
New York, NY
Alma Madsen   New York, NY
I agree. A good one to test your footwork. Jun 2, 2010
Tom Caldwell
Alpine, UT
  5.10c
Tom Caldwell   Alpine, UT
  5.10c
The first limestone route in Rock Canyon. Still one of the best. May 30, 2010
Jeff Jones
Elk Ridge, UT
  5.10c
Jeff Jones   Elk Ridge, UT
  5.10c
Finally!! This is another route I swore I would never get back on after I sent it. Well, I am beginning to realize that the climbs are always more fun when you finally get them. Small, crimpy, and balancy. I thought the crux was getting to the last bolt below the chains. There is a bomber hold there but getting to it is tricky and you have to really trust your feet. I think this is a good route for gauging where you are with your footwork. Now I can look with fondness at the scar this route left me when I tried it a couple of years ago. Jul 3, 2009
The second pitch is pretty darn fun. But it needs some more traffic. The big roof and upper slab is a little dirty. More ascents will clean this up. May 18, 2007
I put up the second pitch with my friend Tristan before he left for his mission to Russia. I always wanted to drill a few more bolts above the big roof. We thought that the bolts up to the roof were fine. We didn't plan to run it out so much but the climbing was easy and we ran out of hangers. The slab was longer than it looked from the ground. If someone gets there before I get back I don't care if they add two bolts in the blank spaces up high. May 18, 2007
tenesmus  
 
one of my first .10's and maybe my 5th lead. Apr 18, 2006
Lee Jensen  
 
Great little crimpy moves up this limestone face. The route never gets overhung and so it is more balance than anything.

There has been a second pitch added above this one. Do a hanging belay off the first pitch anchors and go for it. There are a couple 5.10 moves, but overall much easier than the first pitch.

The second pitch has well spaced bolts and a double chain anchor. Aug 2, 2005
Jason Billings
Draper, UT
  5.10d
Jason Billings   Draper, UT
  5.10d
I felt this climb was very difficult for the rating. Jul 17, 2005