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Routes in Earwax Wall

Antidote S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Biology of Small Appliances, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Black Flag of the Schwarzer Kamin, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Domestic Violence T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Earwax T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Killslug S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raggedy Andy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Raggedy Anne S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Sideshow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slugshow S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Soul on Ice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Young Cynics S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Greg Collum, Greg Child FFA: Andy deKlerk
Page Views: 74 total, 1/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Dec 29, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Tough edging (.11) leads to a rest on Sideshow. Liebacking leads up to the crux roof pull and thin face above (.12). A poorly equipped anchor exists above the roof; apparently the pitch continues past more bolts and natural gear to a higher anchor, but this appears overgrown and the anchor status is unknown.

Location

The next route to the right of Sideshow. Can also be climbed via the start of Sideshow.

One 60m will get you down from the anchor above the roof. If one were to continue to the top of the full pitch, a 70m and/or two ropes would be needed to decend.

Protection

Bolts. A couple of cams or nuts can mediate the runout above bolt 4, but the climbing there is much easier than the rest of the route. Fixed anchors, but they may need carabiners or webbing to facilitate rappel.

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