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Routes in Earwax Wall

Antidote S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Biology of Small Appliances, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Black Flag of the Schwarzer Kamin, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Domestic Violence T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Earwax T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Killslug S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raggedy Andy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Raggedy Anne S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Sideshow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slugshow S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Soul on Ice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Young Cynics S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Eric Hirst, Jon Nelson (5/2014)
Page Views: 1,494 total, 34/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on May 2, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Continuous thin edging up a slightly less than vertical wall. The most thoughtful part may be between the 2nd and 4th bolt, but the climbing never really eases up. Despite it being relatively short, expect to get pumped near the end. No good rests, but lots of good holds.

Start by gaining the top of the large flake resting against the wall. Take Ben's direct start from the base to get the most fun from the pitch. But an easier way is on the left side if you so desire. From the top of the flake, start on Sideshow, using its first two bolts. After the second bolt, veer left to the base of a groove and crack feature, then go up. Finish about 10' right of where Domestic violence crosses the roof.

You can probably traverse left to the Domestic roof and continue up that route, if the bottom part of Domestic is seeping.

Location

Same start as Sideshow. Look for the bolts just above the large flake leaning against the wall.

Protection

8 bolts.The top anchor has fixed biners on two bolts.
Excellent route Eric and Jon! Flake boulder now has a bolt for a direct start. This adds some nice 5.10 climbing up the center of the flake. Relevant for both "The Black Flag of the Schwarzer Kamin" and "Sideshow". Sep 8, 2014
Primo crimp cruise. Would that it were infinitely long and return to the base unnecessary. Jul 29, 2014
Eric Hirst  
 
Really fun climbing! Highly recommended for anyone in the area, and a great warmup for the hard stuff nearby. I'd give it 4 stars if it were longer.

Note that we swapped out the old SMC hangers from the first 2 Sideshow bolts, but did not replace these bolts. They seem OK. May 3, 2014