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Routes in Earwax Wall

Antidote S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Biology of Small Appliances, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Black Flag of the Schwarzer Kamin, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Domestic Violence T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Earwax T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Killslug S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raggedy Andy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Raggedy Anne S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Sideshow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slugshow S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Soul on Ice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Young Cynics S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: FA: Jeff Baird, Max Dufford
Page Views: 173 total, 2/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Dec 29, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Technically a variation to Soul on Ice, this has enough good climbing to stand on its own. Easier than Soul on Ice. Heads left right above the bulge at, I believe, the 5th bolt of Soul on Ice. Steep, sequential climbing leads to the Young Cynics belay.

Location

Start via Soul on Ice; veer left at the the 5th bolt, right above the roof bulge.

60m rope to descend.

Protection

8 or 9 bolts, bolted anchors with chains. There are a couple of closely spaced bolts around where the variation veers off that may create rope drag; skipping a bolt and/or backcleaning one alleviates this problem.

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This is route has been scrubbed clean. March 8th, 2014. Mar 9, 2014