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Routes in Earwax Wall

Antidote S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Biology of Small Appliances, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Black Flag of the Schwarzer Kamin, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Domestic Violence T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Earwax T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Killslug S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raggedy Andy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Raggedy Anne S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Sideshow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slugshow S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Soul on Ice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Young Cynics S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Don Harder, Dougal McCarty FFA: Terry Lien, Jon Nelson
Page Views: 1,353 total · 12/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Dec 29, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Slightly dicey climbing off the ground leads better protected but thin climbing through discontinuous cracks to a steep section through a bulge. The technical crux is just below the roof, then you have a decent rest before the pumpy crux.

One can stop at the Young Cynics anchor at 75'. The original first pitch went another 55' to a higher anchor with a harder crux, making a 130', stellar thin crack pitch.

Location

This is the thin crack right of Killslug and left of Young Cynics and Soul on Ice.

A 60m will lower from the midway anchor. If the entire pitch were cleaned, two ropes would be needed.

Protection

Lots of thin to #2 or 3 Camalot; possibly wider for the very top, if it were clean. Double or triple up on nuts and finger size. Midway anchors are chains on aging bolts; top anchor is unknown but probably unsafe at this point. If planning to lead the full pitch bring a nut tool, a hardy brush and maybe a shovel.

Photos

Nate Redon
Seattle, WA
 
Nate Redon   Seattle, WA
 
The lower section was scrubbed a few days ago and is currently clean (although it still looks dirty-ish from the ground). Great route. Sep 15, 2016
kerwinl
 
kerwinl  
 
The route is clean enough to climb, although it appears to be very very dirty. Really good, deserves more traffic. Apr 17, 2016
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
I did it long ago, but went back this summer and couldn't even TR the techy part just below the roof. It's definitely a challenging route I'll be back for. Aug 7, 2014
MorganH
 
MorganH  
 
One of the funnest roof sequences I've done on a trad climb. Definitely techy down low. Aug 7, 2014
It's clean enough to do to the top. Nov 13, 2010

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