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Routes in Earwax Wall

Antidote S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Biology of Small Appliances, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Black Flag of the Schwarzer Kamin, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Domestic Violence T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Earwax T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Killslug S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raggedy Andy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Raggedy Anne S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Sideshow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slugshow S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Soul on Ice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Young Cynics S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Description

This wall is semi-shaded and can be a good summer option. The rock here lends itself to positive face climbing and most of the routes are just under vertical or overhung. There are at least a dozen quality routes here. They range from the friendly, positive Sideshow (.10c/d) and Black Flag (.10+) to the micro-edging testpieces like Soul on Ice (.12c) and the ultra-thin The Antidote (.13-). Since when were .12c and .13- "testpieces" in this day and age, you ask? Well, since you tried them at Index! There are a couple of cracks as well: Domestic Violence, Earwax, and Killslug.
2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Getting There

Located on the far left side of the main upper wall. Approach via the upper wall trail. At one point the trail surmounts a step via a fixed rope. The Biology of Small Appliances (.12) arete is the first feature encountered. It should be noted that this continues to be a drop zone for trash from *ahem* "4WD motor sports enthusiasts" which consists mostly of Bud Light (TM) and Natural Ice (TM) cans but can include the occasional truck canopy or live firecracker. People have also allegedly been shot at while climbing on the Upper Walls in the past, although (luckily!) this does not seem to be a continuing issue. Use caution on the trail, particularly under the Tempitchuous area, which is a little ways before reaching Earwax wall proper.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Earwax Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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