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Routes in Earwax Wall

Antidote, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Antithesis (project), The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Biology of Small Appliances, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Black Flag of the Schwarzer Kamin, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Domestic Violence T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Earwax T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Killslug S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raggedy Andy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Raggedy Anne S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Sideshow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slugshow S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Soul on Ice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Young Cynics S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Max Dufford and Greg Olson, 1989
Page Views: 683 total · 9/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Dec 16, 2011
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: 2018 Seasonal Raptor Closure: Upper pitches of the Diamond Details

Description [Edit]

This stunning arete is the rightmost route on the Earwax Wall.

Five bolts of very technical and insecure 5.11+ arete climbing leads to a crux and then more 5.11+ to the chains.

Location [Edit]

Right arete of the Earwax Wall.

Protection [Edit]

7 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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kerwinl
5.12
kerwinl  
5.12
This thing offers some of the most sustained and technical climbing I have done at index, the quality is unreal. Unfortunately it is also pretty dirty, slightly detracting from the quality, be sure to bring a brush and a sense of humor. Apr 5, 2016
Sent this route yesterday--12B seems appropriate (definitely as hard as arete climbs like: "vision","latest Rage", or "Chips Ahoy" down in Yosemite). No stopper moves but unrelenting --making redpointing vs TR distinguishable. Originally graded 12c (Clint's guide) and then down to 12a (Cramer guide)--the new guide sticking with the latter but eluding to the former. :->

Wire brushed for 2 hours.

The bushes in the adjacent corner are a visual nuisance but do not affect the climbing. Previously, there existed a 20' runout to the anchor (protected by a #1BD cam)---I went ahead and placed a bolt--rendering this a sport climb.

So good! Definitely worthy of more traffic 2 days ago

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