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Routes in Earwax Wall

Antidote S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Biology of Small Appliances, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Black Flag of the Schwarzer Kamin, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Domestic Violence T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Earwax T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Killslug S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Raggedy Andy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Raggedy Anne S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Sideshow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slugshow S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Soul on Ice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Young Cynics S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Andy Deklerk
Page Views: 913 total, 8/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Dec 29, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Overhung climbing on mostly positive holds leads over a bulge to very continuous micro-edging on the more gradual headwall. Extremely thin at the crux. This is quintessential Index sport climbing: thin, desperate, and requiring an absolute fusion of poise and raw power. Awesome!

Location

This is the left of two routes and a number of variations that begin on the wall just left of the obvious arete (Biology of Small Appliances). The route continues more or less straight up the wall, while two variations (Raggedy Andy, .12a *** and Raggedy Ann, .11d ***) take off from the 5th and 6th bolts, I believe. They end at the Young Cynics anchor.

A 60m rope will get you down from the top.

Protection

10 bolts, perhaps? Bolted anchor. Some of the hardware continues to age. Status of anchor unknown as of '08, but I believe it had chains.

Photos

Finished SOI yesterday Drew. Stout 12+ is probably a fair grade. Now you get back up there and try the direct version I bolted via the start of Antidote. :-> Jan 14, 2015
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
Redpoint this thing and report back with your findings! Mar 10, 2014
This is route has been scrubbed clean. Feb 2nd, 2014. Mar 9, 2014
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
I don't know how we even got up this thing in '07, because we didn't really scrub it and it was dirty then too. Maybe it's gotten dirtier since. I do recall it being the one time I've ever used a stick clip on lead because the crux is sharp and hard as nails and my skin was depleting rapidly. The top of the climb above the crux just doesn't let up either. I don't remember if it was reachy but I remember that it was hard. Fully agree that it's .12c only in the Index grading vortex. Feb 7, 2014
Got on this route back in 2007. Last Sat I went back up there to try and finish it. The Earwax Wall routes (other than sideshow) have been severely neglected and it took about an hour of scrubbing just to see the holds. Once scrubbed, I spent another hour trying to unlock the moves. Not sure if height would help on this climb; but I found the climbing far far far harder than 12b/c. I think if this was anywhere else (i.e. Yosemite or Squamish...) it would be at least 12d/13a. I'd be curious of other successful redpoints. Andrew P. did it back in 2007. Obviously DeKlerk. Who else? It is also quite possible that holds have broken off. The crux face is comprised of patina based holds.

Regardless, I'm psyched to get back up there and finish it. Antidote... is completely unclimbable due to dirt & moss. I'll see if I can scrub it up.

And yes, the routes anchor has chains.

Also, there are three fixed lines on the wall. Anyone know whose lines they are? Hopefully they belong to someone with a penchant for brushing. Jan 29, 2014