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Routes in Left Flank

Aquaduck Pocket S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Brother Stair S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dinosaur, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Face Up To That Crack T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fast Food Christians S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fresh Meat V2 5+
Henry S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Infectious S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Maypop S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mercy the Huff S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mr. Bungle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Relaxed Atmoshere S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sex Farm S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stunning the Hog S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Table of Colors S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Table of Colors Direct S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Third World Lover S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
To Defy The Laws Of Tradition S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Too Many Puppies S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsportsmanlike Conduct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wild Yet Tasty S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Portar Jarrard, Tony Berlier
Page Views: 2,446 total, 22/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 20, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

This crimpy number combines an intense crux with enduro jugs on some of the best stone in the country. The business is all about finger strength & pain tolerance with a few tough moves on brutal crimps, though a significant pump, and devious moves keep the outcome in doubt right up to the end.

Begin atop a flat boulder. Long cranks between incut holds leads to a good ledge & shake below the third bolt. Strenuous V6-ish cranks lead to another ledge and a great rest on a creaky & somewhat spooky black rail. Long moves on widening holds lead to a sequential pocket section, followed by more good rests, then a final right-ward traverse to the chains.

Location

2nd route from the left end of the cliff, immediately left of "Wild, Yet Tasty."

Protection

6 bolts. Considering the boulder, you may want to stick clip the 2nd bolt.

Photos

Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
If you're wondering about the grade, read this. Dec 20, 2008