Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Portar Jarrard, Tony Berlier
Page Views: 2,680 total · 22/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 20, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

This crimpy number combines an intense crux with enduro jugs on some of the best stone in the country. The business is all about finger strength & pain tolerance with a few tough moves on brutal crimps, though a significant pump, and devious moves keep the outcome in doubt right up to the end.

Begin atop a flat boulder. Long cranks between incut holds leads to a good ledge & shake below the third bolt. Strenuous V6-ish cranks lead to another ledge and a great rest on a creaky & somewhat spooky black rail. Long moves on widening holds lead to a sequential pocket section, followed by more good rests, then a final right-ward traverse to the chains.

Location

2nd route from the left end of the cliff, immediately left of "Wild, Yet Tasty."

Protection

6 bolts. Considering the boulder, you may want to stick clip the 2nd bolt.

Photos

Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.12d
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.12d
If you're wondering about the grade, read this. Dec 20, 2008