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Routes in Left Flank

Aquaduck Pocket S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Brother Stair S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dinosaur, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Face Up To That Crack T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fast Food Christians S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fresh Meat V2 5+
Henry S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Infectious S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Maypop S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mercy the Huff S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mr. Bungle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Relaxed Atmoshere S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sex Farm S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stunning the Hog S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Table of Colors S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Table of Colors Direct S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Third World Lover S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
To Defy The Laws Of Tradition S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Too Many Puppies S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsportsmanlike Conduct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wild Yet Tasty S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: P. Jarrard, 1992
Page Views: 1,946 total, 14/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 29, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


143 Opinions

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Description

A short climb, but some interesting climbing...
Just around the corner right from the approach trail to Left Flank, there is a short climb on some steep rock. Climb up off-angle pockets for the crux of this one past a total of four bolts to the anchor.
I believe this climb was named after a local preacher in the early 90's.

Location

Left Flank, just right of the approach trail.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Alex Templar
  5.9+ PG13
Alex Templar  
  5.9+ PG13
1st bolt is a spinner right now. There is a broken hold that is chocked in place but will likely go soon about 2/3's up. As stated the new bolts are farther from the line and make this a weird route, I had a lot more fun climbing it TR then I did leading it. We didn't climb the sharp end to clean it, rather we cleaned on the lower to be able to enjoy the climb without dealing with 4 micro-traverses (exaggeration, but really). Too bad about the bolt placement because this one has some really cool iron formations to be found and a great start. Sep 9, 2017
Rick Lewis
Indianapolis, IN
 
Rick Lewis   Indianapolis, IN
 
Poorly placed bolts with relation to the climbing makes fun arete climbing difficult due to the clips. Left anchor is loose as of 7/2 Jul 5, 2017
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.9+
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.9+
Save your time and climb something more fun than this. Nov 28, 2016
Russ Worley
Atlanta, GA
  5.9
Russ Worley   Atlanta, GA
  5.9
Agree with Matt...this is definitely a fun climb. We went with a stick clip for the first bolt, which made the start/crux a good one. There are good holds to clip from for anyone with a decent wingspan. If you're in the area, don't pass this one up. Nov 7, 2016
PatrickBecerra
Hazel Park, MI
 
PatrickBecerra   Hazel Park, MI
 
The new bolts on this climb have been moved to the right of the original bolts about eight inches. It is difficult and/or scary to climb the arete, move right to bolt, and come back in. This line is harder than it's worth, the 5.8 to the left is much more fun and very similar. Jun 17, 2014
charris
 
charris  
 
The first bolt felt like v1, maybe because it was wet. The rest felt like easy 5.8 with safe clips despite all of the moisture. Sep 30, 2012
Matt Baer
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Matt Baer   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Fun Climb with a hard start. Climbing on the arete is the actual route but you are sometimes pretty far from the clips. May 3, 2012
Kurt Swanson
Philadelphia, PA
  5.9+
Kurt Swanson   Philadelphia, PA
  5.9+
Don't fall clipping ... this rock is rough and sharp. I also thought the bolts were a little far from the 5.9 climbing on the arete. Wasn't a big fan. Mar 14, 2012
Chris Chaney
Stanton, Kentucky
 
Chris Chaney   Stanton, Kentucky
 
Named for a southern radio evangelist I think. Not necessarily local. Sep 29, 2006