Face Up To That Crack

Super fun route! I thought the face climbing to the crack was slightly harder...maybe 5.8-5.8+, but there are only 2 really thin moves to gain the crack. Bring a #2 Camalot to plug in the crack, otherwise the route is well bolted. Mar 18, 2007

Take Camalots #1 and #2 - you'll feel exceptionally well protected... Apr 7, 2007

I agree the opening feet are a little harder than 5.8-, but the rest of the route is easier. I used a #2 camalot in the top of the crack, just to protect myself if I blew the next clip. None the less a great warm up for the other routes close by. Oct 24, 2007

Felt a little tougher than 5.8-, that's just me though. I didn't use and pro for the runout section, it was the easiest part for me. Be careful what you grab when you reach the rest above the crack, there is a lot of loose rock. Apr 21, 2008

Not any harder than 5.8, it's just that it's neighbor Mr. Bungle is soft for the grade. Since it seems to me that most sport climbers have no clue how to hand jam, I would recommend bringing a cam for the crux. Jan 18, 2010

Nice climb; for supposed 5.8-, it sure got my attention. I didn't feel any need for placing pro in the crack, but it's there if you need it. May 16, 2010

A #1 low and #2 high really make this route feel safe, but isn't necessary. The crux is below the crack and it can seem a bit more difficult if you aren't used to slab climbing. Felt like good ole NC slab. Sep 30, 2010

Putting a cam in here was more of a chore than anything, the climbing at the crack is easy even if you don't want to hand jam. Mar 14, 2012

I agree with most people that it's totally easy to sew up the crack with a 1 and 2 inch cam even if it's not necessary to. I highly recommend this climb to anyone looking to get into trad leading. The climbing is all fairly easy, especially the hand jams in the crack, and if you do freak out placing gear in the crack, you have bolts below and above. Mar 19, 2012

A #2 or #3 for the crack works well. There is a bolt right before the crack, and it is about 10 feet. So you only need one piece to avoid what could be a bigger fall.

Classic beginner though, and it has a great view. Mar 28, 2014

great route well rated. Jun 17, 2014

Really proud of myself for doing it with the run-out (as we don't have trad gear). Very do-able and was good as someone who tends to be in my head to take on something "scary" but easy. Oct 27, 2014

Crack can also be protected a little higher up with a #.75 just fine! Dec 18, 2014

surprisingly fun little route. the 5.8 rating is from the slab. the crack is probably 5.6. just run it out May 27, 2015

This route is a ton of fun! Crux is certainly between the second and third bolt and is well protected. If you dont have gear to place in the crack, then blowing perfect hand jams could result in some serious pain. Crack is 5.6ish Nov 2, 2015