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Routes in Left Flank

Aquaduck Pocket S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Brother Stair S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dinosaur, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Face Up To That Crack T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fast Food Christians S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fresh Meat V2 5+
Henry S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Infectious S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Maypop S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mercy the Huff S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mr. Bungle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Relaxed Atmoshere S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sex Farm S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stunning the Hog S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Table of Colors S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Table of Colors Direct S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Third World Lover S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
To Defy The Laws Of Tradition S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Too Many Puppies S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsportsmanlike Conduct T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wild Yet Tasty S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: K. Pogue, E. Weinman Pogue
Page Views: 4,082 total, 30/month
Shared By: Mike on Sep 16, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

Follow the bolt line through a short, nice handcrack then more bolts to chains.

Location

Located on Left Flank. Route goes up the center of the slabby face just right of Fast Food Christians.

Protection

Mostly bolted with a #1 camalot for the crack.
Stephenmontgomery
Maryland
  5.8 PG13
Stephenmontgomery   Maryland
  5.8 PG13
This route is a ton of fun! Crux is certainly between the second and third bolt and is well protected. If you dont have gear to place in the crack, then blowing perfect hand jams could result in some serious pain. Crack is 5.6ish Nov 2, 2015
surprisingly fun little route. the 5.8 rating is from the slab. the crack is probably 5.6. just run it out May 27, 2015
Drew Zedosky
Lakewood, Colorado
Drew Zedosky   Lakewood, Colorado
Crack can also be protected a little higher up with a #.75 just fine! Dec 18, 2014
Really proud of myself for doing it with the run-out (as we don't have trad gear). Very do-able and was good as someone who tends to be in my head to take on something "scary" but easy. Oct 27, 2014
Dreez
 
Dreez  
 
great route well rated. Jun 17, 2014
kevin614d  
 
A #2 or #3 for the crack works well. There is a bolt right before the crack, and it is about 10 feet. So you only need one piece to avoid what could be a bigger fall.

Classic beginner though, and it has a great view. Mar 28, 2014
Drake Pregnall
Morehead, KY
Drake Pregnall   Morehead, KY
I agree with most people that it's totally easy to sew up the crack with a 1 and 2 inch cam even if it's not necessary to. I highly recommend this climb to anyone looking to get into trad leading. The climbing is all fairly easy, especially the hand jams in the crack, and if you do freak out placing gear in the crack, you have bolts below and above. Mar 19, 2012
Kurt Swanson
Philadelphia, PA
  5.8
Kurt Swanson   Philadelphia, PA
  5.8
Putting a cam in here was more of a chore than anything, the climbing at the crack is easy even if you don't want to hand jam. Mar 14, 2012
George Heib
  5.8-
George Heib  
  5.8-
A #1 low and #2 high really make this route feel safe, but isn't necessary. The crux is below the crack and it can seem a bit more difficult if you aren't used to slab climbing. Felt like good ole NC slab. Sep 30, 2010
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.9-
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.9-
Nice climb; for supposed 5.8-, it sure got my attention. I didn't feel any need for placing pro in the crack, but it's there if you need it. May 16, 2010
ziggy  
Not any harder than 5.8, it's just that it's neighbor Mr. Bungle is soft for the grade. Since it seems to me that most sport climbers have no clue how to hand jam, I would recommend bringing a cam for the crux. Jan 18, 2010
Keegan Dimmick
Winchester, VA
  5.8
Keegan Dimmick   Winchester, VA
  5.8
Felt a little tougher than 5.8-, that's just me though. I didn't use and pro for the runout section, it was the easiest part for me. Be careful what you grab when you reach the rest above the crack, there is a lot of loose rock. Apr 21, 2008
Justin Dansby
GA
  5.8-
Justin Dansby   GA
  5.8-
I agree the opening feet are a little harder than 5.8-, but the rest of the route is easier. I used a #2 camalot in the top of the crack, just to protect myself if I blew the next clip. None the less a great warm up for the other routes close by. Oct 24, 2007
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.8-
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.8-
Take Camalots #1 and #2 - you'll feel exceptionally well protected... Apr 7, 2007
Jim Matt
Indianapolis, IN
  5.8
Jim Matt   Indianapolis, IN
  5.8
Super fun route! I thought the face climbing to the crack was slightly harder...maybe 5.8-5.8+, but there are only 2 really thin moves to gain the crack. Bring a #2 Camalot to plug in the crack, otherwise the route is well bolted. Mar 18, 2007