Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,724 total · 24/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on Oct 21, 2008
Admins: BDalhaus, Brad Fauteux, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Please read the Covid warning in detail below - Parking Issues: Starting 10/24/20 a reservation will be required to park at Reservation Rd. on all days and for the Backside on the weekends. See Details

Description

Do not miss this climb! While the Horn may take the prize for best trad climb in Pawtuckaway, this beautiful inside corner runs a close second. Start out atop a ledge with two jugs and large feet that will help you get established in the corner. Employing a variety of techniques, layback, stem, smear, and jam your way up the climb with the use of the hand crack in the back. Remember to keep your heels down or your calves will scream and if youÂ’re not used to smearing you might feel a tad insecure. The crux comes early at a small roof, followed shortly thereafter by a lesser crux getting past the remnants of a tree. Every move is easily protected, but above all, the entire climb is enjoyable, aesthetic, and fun. It catches afternoon sun, dries quickly (the ledge at the base may not), and is the perfect excuse to get away from the crowds.

Location

Roughly two minutes walk from Boulder Natural. Follow the trail towards Devil's Den, step over a jagged, fallen tree, and turn right at a large tree with a white blaze onto a faint path uphill. There is a tiny cairn just off the trail. This inside corner is hard to miss and is the first climb you come to. Ascend a gully on the left to set up a toprope.

Protection

The crack will eat as much gear as you'll give it. Bring a lot of medium sized gear up to a #2 camalot. Anything larger probably isn't needed. Tree anchors at the top.

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