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Routes in Ridgeline

Assisted Living V0 4 PG13
Aurora Borealis V3 6A
Banditos V4 6B
Beginners T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Binding, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Body Grind V4 6B
Call of the Wild V7 7A+
Cornered T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Counterclockwise V8 7B
Counterclockwise Direct V6 7A
Crash Pad Surfer V3 6A
Cuckoo Clock V2-3 5+
Dirty Little Rabbits V1 5
Eveready TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Face It TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger Crack, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V0 4
Flying Ninja Kick V2 5+
Funny Games V6 7A
Good Book, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hairway to Steven V6 7A
Harvest Moon V0 4
I Saw an X-Ray of a Girl Passing Gas V3 6A
Instant Hippie V0 4
Lady Sniff V2 5+
Magnificent Bastard V5 6C
Overhanging Arete TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rainy Day Women V1 5
She Had Armpit Hair Like a Wookie V0 4
Smiley Face V3 6A
Western Esotericism V2+ 5+
Wild Wild West V7 7A+
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 878 total · 8/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on Oct 20, 2008
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Three desperate moves followed by a classic romp up technical jugs to a high topout. Stand start in the middle of the face with a crescent shaped crimp sidepull and poor feet and establish yourself on the wall with difficulty. Shoot out right to a slopey knob feature before making a hard match. Make another big move out right to a great jug, work your feet, and use a high left crimp to aid in sticking the lip. There is a hidden two-finger pocket at the lip if you need it. Try not to forget your footing and topout.

Location

Left of Magnificent and right of Hairway on the tall boulder next to the log about a minute from the main trail. This face isn't visible from the trail. Downclimb down the gully on the right or circle around to the left by Hippie.

Protection

Pads & spotter

Photos

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Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
 
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
 
This problem has definitely cleaned up since 2015 and the (invisible) footholds for the first move aren't going anywhere, the broken foot out right seems to be stable and is quite good. Don't let previous comments deter you! Jun 5, 2017
Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
  V8-
Troy Fauteux   Henniker NH
  V8-
All the hand holds are good but there are no footholds whatsoever for the starting move. I had to get creative and smear a micro divot... Dec 26, 2015
Tristan Baldwin
Amherst, NH
Tristan Baldwin   Amherst, NH
The quality of rock for feet is abysmal. For the starting moves, I would paste my feet, then wipe the gravel on my pants. There are no feet whatsoever for the first move, but you don't really need anything more than two smears. The match is definitely the crux, and while there are clear footholds that far right, they are shit too. I was matched on the flake and fell as my foot ripped off a 6"x6" flake. No equivalent foothold was left after the break, but a fair amount of ankle skin was. There had been two feet near there and now only one remains. It seems more or less permanent.

The garbage rock quality at foot level really detracts from the quality of the problem because the hand holds are all comfortable and the movements are fun. This climb will be different for every climber as each will induce there own erosion to the bottom half of this boulder. Dec 20, 2015
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
 
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
 
Thanks dude! You were right as always. Aug 30, 2015
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V8-
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V8-
Yah, the feet are kind of fragile. And yes, the match is the crux. As for your question, it might be 'Assisted Living'?? Aug 30, 2015
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
 
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
 
Got on this today, great line, and so close to the trail, I'm surprised these boulders don't get climbed more. Can't wait to get back on it in better conditions. Matching the middle hold seems to be the crux. I broke the right starting foot Christian used in his video, a lower left foothold with my right foot and starting switched worked out. Aug 30, 2015
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
 
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
 
Glad someone finally got on this! Sep 10, 2014
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V8-
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V8-
Climbed this today in terrible conditions. Not a bad little climb. Definitely one of the more interesting lines in the Ridgeline area. A somewhat awkward start, but fairly easy when you figure out the right body positioning.

The handholds are good quality rock but the footholds are a bit fragile and that takes away from the quality of the climb a bit for me. Kind of hard to grade, for me, but v8ish sounds about right. Aug 3, 2014