Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 425 total · 3/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on Oct 20, 2008
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Short and stout and fun with slopers. This problem is essentially a direct finish to the start of Hairway to Steven. Sit start with the right hand crimp sidepull and the smeared left foot. Power up to the slopers and match before making a big move up and left to a small sloper right of the crack. Get a foot up on the start hold and try like hell to stand up before running up the slab above. Fun!

Location

Visible from the main trail, this climb is on the first cluster of boulders past the Body Grind cave. Shares a start with Hairway to Steven.

Protection

Pad

Photos

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Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
This problem is definitely harder than 'Hairway To Steven'. And due to the hump factor, not quite as good, in my opinion. Worth doing though. Oct 14, 2013
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
  V6
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
  V6
I must have gotten lucky. I had a hump-free ascent. Oct 15, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
Maybe I was just doing it wrong. Perhaps grunt is more accurate than hump. 'Try like hell to stand up' is how it felt. Oct 15, 2013
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
 
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
 
Someone I shall not name ripped off the left hand starting crimp on this right after I climbed it, I did the first move afterwards pinching a spot on the arete, felt more core intensive and maybe a bit harder, there are also some usable sharp crimps further left. Not a bad little climb. Sep 12, 2015
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
  V6
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
  V6
After reading the comments here, my only question was "There was a left hand starting crimp?" Where? I always started matched or just one-armed it to the slopers. Dec 18, 2015