Type: Boulder, 18 ft (5 m)
GPS: 43.10192, -71.18094
FA: Jeremy and Kurt Oin 2001/02
Page Views: 2,219 total · 10/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on Sep 21, 2008 · Updates
Admins: BDalhaus, Brad Fauteux, Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Originally cleaned and climbed by Jeremiah Johnson and Kurt Oin, Jeremy told the story of how they found this line in the middle of summer in the early 2000’s. The humidity and heat kept shutting them down so they used alcohol on there hands and rock to get the send!!! I can here Jeremy’s laugh in my head as they desperately got the send and called the climb Alcohol!!

Perfect height, great moves, and devious holds. This powerful, delicate arete is a hidden gem and now one of my favorites in the park. Sit start with a three finger jug for your left hand and a crimp for your right. Slither up to two tiny crimps using a sidepull before powering into a gaston pinch. With the help of another crimp and an undercling, make a hard deadpoint up to one of two crimps before snagging the flat sloping lip which feels like a jug.

V5 from the stand, starting by jumping to the gaston.

Location Suggest change

Five minutes up the Fire Tower Trail, where the trail takes a hard right turn, head left/downhill on a faint footpath where you can see the pond through the trees. When on the footpath, this boulder is the leftmost rock that is visible. The problem climbs the arete behind the tree.

Protection Suggest change

Two pads and a spotter.

Photos

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