Type: Boulder, 17 ft (5 m)
GPS: 43.10192, -71.18094
FA: Project!
Page Views: 80 total · 6/month
Shared By: Christian Prellwitz on Apr 22, 2025
Admins: BDalhaus, Brad Fauteux, Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Start standing with a pair of small crimps in a seam at head height. Make a big move right into the pod hold used on Pink Dragon Heart and then finish as for that climb. The difficulty is probably somewhere between hard v9 to v11 depending on morphology. It's definitely harder than any move on Teenage Heartthrob. Shorter climbers will probably need to start crossed and use an intermediate in order to have the span to reach the pod. As anyone who has climbed on this wall knows, the seam is seemingly permanently seeping, but I cleaned the starting holds of this line pretty well and they seem to stay reasonably dry most of the time now.

It's also possible to start this climb further left either matched in a pod in the seam or with the left hand in the pod and the right hand on a small crimp right next to it. This would add two moves and up the quality a bit. Unfortunately, those holds seem permanently/semi permanently wet, so this start might not be possible the majority of the time. That being said, those two moves don't add that much difficulty.

Either way, it's a fun little crimp challenge that's worth trying if you're already in the area.

Location Suggest change

This climb is located on the Bardo Wall between Teenage Hearthrob and Pink Dragon Heart. It starts about 6 feet left of Pink Dragon Heart.

Protection Suggest change

A few pads are useful as the line traverses a bit.

Photos

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