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Routes in The Fire Tower

Bartender V0 4
Buddha's Belly V2-3 5+
Burnout V5 6C
Confusion Fog V1 5
DesBrett V3 6A
Didjabringabeeralong V4 6B
Dream On V0 4
Frog, The V0 4
Headbutt V6 7A
Jesus Every Time V5 6C
Letterbomb V2 5+
Masterlock V2 5+
Mellow Down Easy V0+ 4+
Midnight In A Perfect World V9-10 7C+
Mr. Big V7-8 7B
Nada V0 4
Project V6-7 7A+
Proper Pooper Placement V8 7B
Remedy, The V3 6A
Slither V7 7A+
What's Before Midnight V4-5 6B+
Type: Boulder
FA: Jeremiah Johnson
Page Views: 955 total, 8/month
Shared By: Jeremiah Johnson on Aug 19, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

From the obvious horizontal at head height, move up to bad slopers and make a big reach to a very slopey mono solution pocket. Get your feet up high and either bump to the slopey ball or make a hard lock off and cross to the ball. Once you've matched the ball, it's an easy move to the top. This problem is really unique for Pawtuckaway and looks much easier than it is. It's very friction dependent; long arms and good footwork will help too.

Location

Follow the main trail up. When it breaks right, continue heading up and slightly left on a faint (maybe nonexistent) trail. Eventually on your left you'll see a 20-foot mossy wall with an obvious crack. Skirt the wall and you'll come out in a clearing. Mr. Big is on your left. Start in the slopey horizontal at the 7-ft level and go up.

Note: there are several other good problems in this area worth exploring.

Protection

Maybe a pad.

Photos

Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V8
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V8
Footage of this climb begins at 6:42

vimeo.com/193064839 Nov 25, 2016
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
  V8
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
  V8
Was able to do this yesterday, conditions were perfect and it still felt hard, I thought around v8 for me.

Directions: Easiest (not fastest) way to find this would be to hike the fire tower trail and trend leftwards after passing the fire tower itself, it's on the white blazed trail in sort of an alcove. Alternatively, from Midnight in a Perfect World, head back downhill and trend right on an obvious trail then uphill, same white blazed trail from the other side. Nov 23, 2016
Graham O.
  V8
Graham O.  
  V8
That's awesome! It sounds so cool. If anyone could please provide the set of directions in the Underground guide it would be much appreciated. I looked for this problem for about half an hour to no prevail and I would love to get on it. Nov 22, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V8
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V8
I spoke to Jeremiah and confirmed that I climbed this line, so now I can offer some insight about it. This is an unassuming line that is actually quite good. It looks simple, but ends up being more intricate than you expect. It is also very reach dependent, so the grade is going to vary notably depending on your wingspan. If you can reach the 'ball'/flake from the lower feet, it will likely feel a bit easier. Jeremiah admitted that he graded this on the low end for his wingspan (which is fairly large), meaning it's probably more like v7 for him. For me personally, this climb felt closer to v8/9. I've done most of the hard slabs in the Northeast (and many throughout the country) and most of them take me a session or two. This climb took me around 10-15 sessions to send.

It took me a while to figure out beta, then I tried a bunch of beta that had me close but falling just short of the high flake. I was ready to give up because I thought there were no usable feet above the foot I was already using, but then I found another tiny crystal that was a bit higher. I got close and then that foot broke slightly, but fortunately what was left was still usable. And finally, on my last day before heading back to Colorado, I sent.

A notch down in quality/aesthetics from 'Midnight' and 'Voodoo Child' but, for me, pretty damn close in difficulty. High quality rock and engaging movement. Nov 22, 2016
Graham O.
  V8
Graham O.  
  V8
This sounds awesome, if anybody could post some pictures it would be much appreciated. Nov 11, 2016