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Routes in The Fire Tower

Bartender V0 4
Buddha's Belly V2-3 5+
Burnout V5 6C
Confusion Fog V1 5
DesBrett V3 6A
Didjabringabeeralong V4 6B
Dream On V0 4
Frog, The V0 4
Headbutt V6 7A
Jesus Every Time V5 6C
Letterbomb V2 5+
Masterlock V2 5+
Mellow Down Easy V0+ 4+
Midnight In A Perfect World V9-10 7C+
Mr. Big V7-8 7B
Nada V0 4
Project V6-7 7A+
Proper Pooper Placement V8 7B
Remedy, The V3 6A
Slither V7 7A+
What's Before Midnight V4-5 6B+
Type: Boulder
FA: Jeremiah Johnson
Page Views: 1,626 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jeremiah Johnson on Aug 19, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This is a very hard dynamic slab problem. Start by stemming in the scoop to reach left hand up to a small thumb-undercling. Match the thumb-undercling and reach out left to a terrible ripple of a crimp. Get your right foot very high on an insecure, glassy edge and generate enough momentum to launch you high and right to a good crimp on the edge of the scoop. You'll probably lose all other points of contact with the wall when you hit the crimp. Control it, match, then follow good flakes up and over the top. The finish is a little high but very easy compared to the rest. A very good problem for those that can appreciate a hard slab climb.

Location

Follow the main trail up; when the main trail turns right, stay on it. 100 - 200 yards from the turn, start looking into the woods on the left for a tall, just-under-vertical scoop-like wall just up and off the trail behind some pines (it's a little hard to see). That's the one.

Protection

A couple pads and a spot. The landing seems flat, but it's easy to roll your ankle here anyway.

Photos

Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V9-10
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V9-10
You're just too strong Ian. Even the rock is weaker than you. :) Dec 9, 2016
Jeremiah Johnson
Contoocook, NH
 
Jeremiah Johnson   Contoocook, NH
 
That hold had a little flex in it 10+ years ago when I did the problem; it was bound to go eventually. Glad it left something! Dec 9, 2016
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
  V10
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
  V10
Bad news everyone.

I was able to repeat this while a friend was working on it, and while topping out I put my right foot on the jug you dyno to and it snapped off. The hold isn't a bucket vertical flake anymore but now a closer and still very good almost two-pad edge, I didn't want to try the move after that happened, but said friend (she's a monster) almost stuck it post-break. I'm not sure if it's MUCH harder, maybe a bit, but it's definitely not any easier. It definitely still goes though. After brushing/cleaning the remaining hold it looks perfectly solid, flat, and friendly. Thankfully the jug didn't break off when I double-clutched to it...

Apologies! :( Dec 7, 2016
Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
Troy Fauteux   Henniker NH
Nice video Christian! This problem has been getting a lot of attention recently. Thanks for recleaning it. Definitely a hidden gem. Nov 28, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V9-10
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V9-10
I reclimbed this line this Fall in order to get video of the original (dyno) method, which is the way I've always done it. I imagine that when I sent it last year it was the likely second ascent. And yes, there are more possibilities for hard slabs in the Fire Tower area. Anyhow, footage of this climb begins at 5:38

vimeo.com/193064839 Nov 25, 2016
Awesome! I'd love to see the dyno method. This is one of my dream projects.

On a side note, there is a beautiful 18' slab right above it, and it appears to be blank. It has potential to be a v10 four star classic! Nov 11, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V9-10
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V9-10
I climbed this again today. And this time I got it on video, so I'll post it up at some point, though it's going to be a while as I'm heading back to Colorado tomorrow, so I'll be pretty busy for the next couple weeks. Nov 11, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V9-10
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V9-10
Jake-

I responded to your email. Nov 10, 2016
Jake Perry
Concord, NH
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
Thanks for the info Christian! I'm planning on getting out to this very soon, I checked it out and it looks incredible. Cool to know that the dyno way really was the only way originally, I think I'll try to avoid that hold now that I know it wasn't part of the original line. Also thanks for cleaning it!

Do you have footage of your send? If so I'd really like to see it if your willing to share it. Nov 9, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V9-10
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V9-10
It should be noted that the crimp that Keith uses in this video only became usable last summer and was not an option on the FA. I know this because I'm the one that broke it. Last summer, I had decided that I would make this line a Fall project, but the line had grown over a bit with lichen. So, I spent a few hours hanging off a rope cleaning the line. While cleaning the top, I had my left foot pressed against a small flake while I was vigorously scrubbing. Suddenly that flake broke and left the crimp that Keith uses up and left. I was bummed because I knew it was probably a handhold option now, though I was hoping it wouldn't work.

When I was working the line, I contemplated this option, but I felt that it wouldn't represent, for me personally, the challenge that the first ascentionist had faced and it wouldn't be in the spirit of the original line. So, I opted for the dyno option and I'm really glad that I did. It was a really cool and unique move. And a memory that will stay with me. I think the dyno way is also more in line with the v9/10 grade.

Obviously, Keith didn't know about the broken crimp, so this is not an attempt to diminish his send in any way. And it's still definitely hard that way, though probably a bit easier than the original method. And now that it's there, it's certainly an option for those interested in this line. However, if you wish to the do the line as it was originally done, with the options that were available to the first ascentionist, you also have that option.

Anyhow, just wanted to shed some light on the differing beta options. Nov 6, 2016
Footage starts at 0.13:
vimeo.com/187563648 Nov 6, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V9-10
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V9-10
I climbed this obscure and amazing line today. One of the coolest climbs I've done at Pway and definitely one of the most unique.

The dyno is definitely the money move, but you need strong fingers and slab skills to get in a position to generate enough momentum to have a chance of latching the good edge. Hard to grade, but it felt similar in difficulty to me as 'Voodoo Child' and took me pretty much the same amount of time. (2 sessions)

Great vision by Jeremiah to see the beauty in this seemingly nondescript line. Nov 8, 2015