Type: Boulder, 20 ft (6 m)
GPS: 43.10192, -71.18094
FA: Franky Lapitino
Page Views: 334 total · 11/month
Shared By: Franky Lapitino on Oct 20, 2023
Admins: BDalhaus, Brad Fauteux, Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


3 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

A very nice crimpy face climb tucked in a scenic little alcove. Good height without being too committing thanks to some good holds up high. The rock is a bit flakey as much of Pawtuckaway tends to be, but holds were tested before the FA and everything on the cleaned line at this point seems to be solid. That being said it is still a new problem so expect some foot holds to chip a little as they break in.

Sit start on an obvious incut flake. A few different hold options exist from here, all of which should lead you to the crescent crimp rail above head height (stand starting from here is around V5-6). Continue up the center of the face with great crimpy lockoffs, eventually reaching a chicken head jug. Recover for a moment then finish on easier climbing to a mellow topout.

Location Suggest change

From the Mr. Big area, with your back to the wall, walk downhill passing Center Of It All (the pretty dike line on the short cliff band) on your left. Continue down and left following the cliff band past a collection of highballs (Tip to Tip area) and eventually reaching the obvious J-Hook crack further to the left. Follow that wall downhill for 20 seconds until you are forced to make a left turn into a little alcove containing the face.

Protection Suggest change

2-3 pads. Great landing

Photos

loading