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Routes in Mossy Ledges Area

Barking Dog, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boldness, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
CU on Top T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cheatstone Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chocolate Sunday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coronary Bypass T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hookers and blow. T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hundred-Foot Stick Clip T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Numic Warrior T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pincushion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pussy Nuts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rapper's Disappointment T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Roberto Duran T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Secret Ingredient T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soylent Green Jeans T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stirling Moss T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: FRA: Karsten Duncan, Rex Parker, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views: 1,961 total, 17/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Sep 2, 2008
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

High up, on the third tier of cliffs, there is a gem of a jam crack, similar in character and quality to Ragged Edges. The cheatstone itself is a boulder about the size of a fairly roomy utility shed. A few stems simplify the opening moves. Good hand jams lead up the steep, pocketed face to a small alcove with a wide crack. Stem to the top and walk off left.

Location

Because this route is high up, on the third tier of cliffs, the obvious approach is to climb one of the routes (e.g. Numic Warrior or Pincushion) that end at this level, and walk left to the start of the crack. Alternatively, climb the slab above the top of Soylent Green Jeans (easy fourth or fifth class) and scramble right to the route.

Protection

std rack
Tom Fralich
Fort Collins, CO
 
Tom Fralich   Fort Collins, CO
 
This is a great pitch! There are some suspect flakes on the face, but the crack takes bomber gear the whole way. If this were closer to the parking, it would be as clean and popular as Ragged Edges. There's a bolted rap station on top that looked pretty new. Mar 28, 2014
billdlee
las vegas
 
billdlee   las vegas
 
The walk-off is a bear. Also a lot of loose rocks on the climb. U Need to be really careful with this route and test any facehold you plan on using. I had a foothold break off.

The crack is fun. The rock sucks :) Apr 20, 2009