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Routes in Mossy Ledges Area

Barking Dog, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boldness, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
CU on Top T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cheatstone Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chocolate Sunday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coronary Bypass T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hookers and blow. T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hundred-Foot Stick Clip T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Numic Warrior T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pincushion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pussy Nuts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rapper's Disappointment T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Roberto Duran T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Secret Ingredient T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soylent Green Jeans T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stirling Moss T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Paul and Pauline VanBetten
Page Views: 3,539 total · 26/month
Shared By: rockratrei on Mar 1, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Climb the positive leaning corner and crack up to the roof (crux) pull through the roof and continue up the weird crack to an alcove.

Location

Start at the base of a large pine tree.
Rap off a tree behind the route and off to the east towards the parking lot.

Protection

SR
Francis Baker (fran)
Las Vegas,NV
  5.9+
Francis Baker (fran)   Las Vegas,NV
  5.9+
This is an excellent route! Start at the base of the upper large pine tree and follow the corner past a small pine, over a roof and belay atop the corner under a large ceiling(55m+/-). Walk east about 25' and scramble down to a tree with slings and rings. If you use this rap I suggest you bring a sling to replace the one there. Jun 4, 2007
John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
John Hegyes   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
Okay, I can't hold back anymore.

This route is brought to you by Soylent red and Soylent yellow, high energy vegetable concentrates, and new, delicious, Soylent green. The miracle food of high-energy plankton gathered from the oceans of the world.

Sol: There was a world, once, you punk.
Det. Thorn: Yes, so you keep telling me.
Sol: I was there. I can prove it.
Det. Thorn: I know, I know. When you were young, people were better.
Sol: Aw, nuts. People were always rotten. But the world 'was' beautiful. Jun 28, 2007
Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
  5.9+ PG13
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
  5.9+ PG13
Good route -- unusual rock for Red Rocks (almost Yosemite-like). 120 feet of interesting and well-protected climbing through the roof then 60-70 feet of juggy 5.4 (or easier). Aug 18, 2008
billdlee
las vegas
  5.9+
billdlee   las vegas
  5.9+
bring some extra webbing to back up the repel tree. The stuff up there is getting a little old as of April 15, 2009. Apr 20, 2009
billdlee
las vegas
  5.9+
billdlee   las vegas
  5.9+
BTW, we repelled with a single 70 meter rope - we had about 15 feet of extra slack. a 60 should get you down, but you will need to downclimb a little. Just make sure you don't repel off the end of your 60m. The repel will put you near the base of the tall pine tree that is higher up and at the base of the climb. Apr 20, 2009
1j1
1j1  
walk off. Apr 20, 2009
Danny Meyers
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
Danny Meyers   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
Great route!! The corner is super thin for us fat-fingered folk. At the pine tree, it looked tempting to go out right and climb the crack to the roof, but I foolishly went up the corner.... Happy to send again. A double set of cams from .4" to 1.5" in addition to a standard rack should do for the route. The belay takes big pieces - about 3.5" and larger. We 3rd classed (downclimbed) off. Oct 20, 2009
Lacie Brownell   Burien
"People were always rotten. But the world 'was' beautiful." This route goes futher than just beautiful. Jul 21, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9+ R
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9+ R
A very good route- very unique for red rocks- a couple of thoughts.

1) This route is bold in places and sustained at the grade- be solid and prepared to run it out. On the flake section, in particular, as any cam placed behind that flake would likely rip if fallen on.

2) The gear is bomber where it matters, though- which is good. A double rack to green or red camalot, a single #2, and your choice of two or more big cams for anchor works out nicely (I would have liked two #4s for the anchor, but a single #3 and #4 works out)

3) Not really worth rappelling- downclimb the obvious way until you reach a slab where there is a choice. Heading skiers left will take you back to the base via a short 4th class step, skiers right will take you to the Case Face. Aug 21, 2010
John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
John Hegyes   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
I've climbed it both ways now. I've cut right at the mid-way tree up the flake. I've also climbed straight up the corner. I think the corner is the way to go, more pure, but pro is hard to get. Definitly bring thin gear. I used two Lowe Balls. Bring #3 to #4 Camalots for the anchor. Sep 26, 2012
GhaMby Eagan
Heaven
5.10a
GhaMby Eagan   Heaven
5.10a
Take a lot of small mastercams or TCU cams, like grey and purples, you can probably fiddle some nuts in as well.

This thing looks like a cake walk until you get on it!

The roof is much easier than it appears, just commit to climbing it and you'll find good holds. I freaked myself out and took, like a little baby. . .then I got back on and it was much easier than I thought it would be (hidden holds!!!).

I belayed by placing yellow and red sized cams in a horizontal above the ledge, this was nicer than having a hanging belay.

I also downclimbed the descent, but there was a rappel station off of a tree that may save 2 minutes, but I didn't want to un-do my rope.

Have fun, stayed in the shade all morning! Mar 26, 2014
Ben Townsend  
 
Nice shady pitch for a hot day. Full value! About 180' total. I dragged up big cams for the anchor and ended up not using them, finding it much more comfortable to belay off small to medium cams and Tricams in the horizontal above the ledge.

We refreshed the rappel webbing. One 60m rope just makes it. Apr 21, 2014
Xavier Wasiak
Las Vegas, NV
Xavier Wasiak   Las Vegas, NV
Well, as I'm sure others have probably found out, the right side of the roof goes. I was lured out there because it looked interesting and fun. A 00 tcu and a 3 camalot protect the moves over the roof leading to a balancy and awkward traverse left. Might not be a great fall. Cuidado. 10+ish? Oct 26, 2015

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