All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (07) Willow Spring > Upper Willow Spring

Piton Route

Name: Piton Route
Rating: 2.0

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Upper Willow Spring

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bad Sushi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Brown Eyes Blue Skies T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Carpetbagger T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	One for the Road T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Piton Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Type:	Trad, 245 ft (74 m), 2 pitches
FA:	Some guy with a hammer
Page Views:	15 total · 15/month
Shared By:	Jack Kelly on Nov 5, 2024
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

The first route we did poking around up here--there was a decent pin "protecting" the P1 crux (back it up and place higher!) and a pin at the P2 belay that came out with two fingers...

P1: Work up the low angle chimney with many cracks, past a couple bushes until the chimney pinches off at a bulgy notch with an old piton at its base. Back up the piton with a hand size or larger cam, stem and jam your way through the notch (5.8) and step left to a good ledge. Either belay here, or climb up another 15 feet to another good ledge with a horizontal that takes finger sized gear. 130 feet 5.8.

P2: Gear can be a bit finicky on this pitch, small nuts useful. Move up discontinous faces on good chocolate varnish and across intermittent ledges. When you climb up to the last ledge below the roof cap, crawl under the roof to the right into a gully system and belay. 115 feet 5.6.

P2 Smedge of a Dream variation--highly recommended: As you approach the roof, look left at the clean dark brown face. Foot traverse out this face with wild exposure, then climb the around the roof to the left and belay. 4th class to the summit from here.

From here--scramble up to the summit via the gully and the easy faces to the left (4th class). The descent trail winds to the north with a few 4th class sections, eventually putting you back on the main terrace system above the mossy ledges area. From here find your way to any of the descent options (CU on Top/Soylent Green Jeans is probably the most "obvious"). Adventure!

Location

Left of the topout of Men in Black, move left/south about 200 feet to a low angle ramp/crack/chimney system that gradually steepens to a obviously crux about 100 feet up.