Type: Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches
FA: Jack Kelly and Rachel Martin, February 2022
Page Views: 23 total · 23/month
Shared By: Jack Kelly on Nov 5, 2024
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

A great route, if a touch more serious than most of the other moderates on this buttress. With a little cleaning, could be stellar. Valentine's day climb!
I didn't take great notes on this so pitch lengths are very approximate.

Pitch 1: Climb the wide crack formed by the pillar on the left and the main buttress--adequate gear with creativity. Near the top of the pillar, move across the gorgeous chocolate face (secure but maybe runout). Belay in some semi-rotten cracks at a sloping ledge. 5.6/5.7 150 feet.

Pitch 2: From the belay, step up and right across a short steep face (hard to protect) until you reach an easy but awkward ramp going up and left. Climb this ramp until it terminates at a small sheltered ledge with a few bushes. 5.7 100 feet.

Pitch 3: Straight off the belay up cracks and chimneys. A great pitch! Mind loose rock on this pitch, as belayer is more or less trapped in the landing zone. After the chimneys and cracks give way to lower angle terrain, make a belay where convenient. 5.8+ 100 feet.

Easy, exposed 4th class leads to the summit--descend as per Piton Route.

Location Suggest change

Starts on a pillar ~200 feet left of the Piton Route. 

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack.

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