All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Willow Spring > Upper Case

Carpetbagger

Name: Carpetbagger
Rating: 0.5

5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British

Routes in Upper Case

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bad Sushi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Boldness, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Brown Eyes Blue Skies T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Carpetbagger T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Cheatstone Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Hookers and blow. T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	One for the Road T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Oubliette, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Penthouse Suite T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Piton Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Pussy Nuts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Sean's Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

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Type:	Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	36.15786, -115.49999
FA:	FKA Andy Fitton and Jack Kelly April 2022
Page Views:	85 total · 6/month
Shared By:	Jack Kelly on Nov 5, 2024
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

This has probably been done before, but there wasn't any evidence of such. It's pretty mossy but you can avoid some of that by climbing out on the face rather than staying strictly in the corner. Not one to write home about.

P1: Climb the corner, trying and failing to avoid moss. Belay at the top of the initial corner at a good ledge. 5.5 120 feet.

P2: Climb easy slab straight up to the same topout (but opposite side) as CU pitch 6.

Descend as per CU or walkoff to the north following sparse cairns with some exposed sections. This is the second half of the walkoff for the main Upper Willow buttress, and deposits you back on the terrace system. From there, take any of the descent options (Soylent Green Jeans/CU on Top is probably the most obvious and convenient).

Location

Approach via CU on Top or any other route that reaches the Upper Willow terrace system. Where CU on Top crosses the Terraces (marked on that route as 3rd class), go up and right a little to a corner that LOOKS like a great alternative.