Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,250 total · 18/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Sep 2, 2008
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin .

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This is a good quality line that goes up to the top of the second tier of cliffs. A bunch of old pitons found in this corner indicate that this route has some history to it.

Climb a white crack to a right-facing dihedral capped by a roof with an offwidth crack. Continue up the wide crack to a large ledge. (This pitch is not really up to the quality of the climbing above; a more aesthetic start might be to climb Chocolate Sunday to reach the big ledge.)

At the far right end of the large ledge, climb the corner system and belay in a small alcove with some fixed pins. The next pitch continues up the crack, past a small roof, a short offwidth, and a few more fixed pitons. Eventually climb a featured chimney to the top.

Descend by walking left (east) to a wide broken area. On the eastern edge of the broken area, a rappel from a pine tree leads down a featured slab to the ledges above Soylent Green Jeans. There is a rappel tree here also, but it is easier to scramble (skier's right) down a short 4th class section, coming out at the big pine tree beneath Soylent Green Jeans.

Location

Begin on the right edge of the Hanging Block Buttress, immediately to the left of a large pine tree.

Protection

Std rack

Photos

Andrew Carson
Wilson, WY
  5.8
Andrew Carson   Wilson, WY
  5.8
Don't be discouraged by the mossy/junky looking start to the third pitch. You can work around the vegetation without disturbing it, or you. Feb 27, 2012
Ben Townsend  
 
We started up Chocolate Sunday and joined the upper pitches. Really fun climbing; if the rock quality were just a bit better, this would be a four-star classic. Apr 11, 2014
rockratrei
Las Vegas, NV
 
rockratrei   Las Vegas, NV
 
There is another variation that maybe the original direct line. Start around to the right of the hanging block and left of Numic Warrior in the corner. P1: Climb the corner and exit into a slot/squeeze chimney 20 ft below the roof to a nic flat ledge (5.5) 100 ft. P2: Climb the corner and exit through a slot to a blocky ledge with a huge roof wander up to the right heading for the bush and back into the original line (5.7) 80 ft. Jun 8, 2015
Ryan Malarky
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ryan Malarky   Fort Collins, CO
 
As of Oct. 6, 2016, the webbing on the pin anchor at the top of the second pitch, in the small alcove, is in dire need of replacement. The current webbing is bleached and pretty crispy. Bring some extra cord or webbing. You may also want to have some extra cord/webbing for the first rap station. We left some cord, but another piece would be good. Oct 7, 2016
michael meoli
  5.8 R
michael meoli  
  5.8 R
3rd pitch Off-width was to much for me. Squeeze from 4' to 2', No Pro unless you are thin and can squeeze into the back of feature, Smooth walls, No edges, Dangerous fall. We backed off. Left a nut and # .3 Camolot to lower off. (Booty)
Also left Cordelette and Biner on Historic Pitons for rappeling. (More Booty)
I'll admit O W are not my thing but 5.8 climbers beware. I'd give this climb a R rating. May 31, 2017
l rs
  5.8
l rs  
  5.8
Um, I don;t see how anyone calling themselves a 10b trad leader would ever back off this climb??? This is NOT an R climb, although in typical Larry style is definitely a thoughtful PG route with just enough gear to make you content but not enough to make you happy. The offwidth section is literally 2 moves for a 5'3" climber and reminded me of a harder but way shorter pitch 2 of Tunnel Vision. I do think the climbing is solid 5.8 for all of pitch 3, but no offwidth skills are needed at any point on the pitch. Super fun climb, just wish it was longer! Sep 16, 2017
Had to bail after P1 due to darkness and the ranger eyeballing our car for a ticket (we escaped the gov't's grasp). However, we left a BD #9 Stopper, 1-single length nylon alpine sling, cordelette, rappel rings, quick links, and a carabiner or two. They are your booty if you go get them, but maybe leave the rings and quick links for the next group, your call.

Enjoy the route!

We started with 1-70m rope and bailed west from the top of P1 without any trouble. I do not know if the upper pitches would require a multi-rope rappel to the base. Oct 25, 2018