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Routes in Mossy Ledges Area

Barking Dog, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boldness, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
CU on Top T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cheatstone Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chocolate Sunday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coronary Bypass T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hookers and blow. T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hundred-Foot Stick Clip T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Numic Warrior T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pincushion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pussy Nuts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rapper's Disappointment T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Roberto Duran T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Secret Ingredient T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soylent Green Jeans T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stirling Moss T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
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Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Richard Harrison, Wendell Broussard, Nick Nordblom, Sal Mamusia, Paul Van Betten
Page Views: 1,215 total · 9/month
Shared By: Cunning Linguist on Jun 30, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Thin, heady, and varied-- a sustained tick that probably edges further into sandbag territory every time someone climbs it and wears away at the tiny fragile holds. THIN slab to groany flake to odd mostly horizontal moves out a steep section to chossish finishing face (easier). Way more classic than I could describe. A window back in time when balls and mind control made you a climber worth respecting, not who pays you to wear their shoes. When placing a bolt meant you NEEDED it, not because it made the route "popular" or "accessible." Classic.

Location

The lone bolt on this cliff (the only one *necessary*) denotes the route.

Protection

A good candidate for a multiple rope pro system and more than one belayer (it's Britishy). Pro can be found way to the right in a crack that you'd have to climb, protect, downclimb, and also by climbing up Soylent to the tree, slinging that, then downclimbing to the ground and psyching up for some interesting catches if you grease. The bolt is old but not horrendous, but as soon as you're clipped in you'll know that you're in for some excitement. Hand and fist sized cams for the flake, small pro up top before the steeps, long slings and experieced belayer(s) are a must. Get shortroped on this one and you're headed back to the car the fast way. Wendell B. advised Meoli that this one was protected from the side on the FA, so you're not chicken when you use all available resources.

Photos

Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
Killis, can you give more specific instructions on how to locate this thing and how to get off. Thanks in advance. Jul 2, 2007
John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
John Hegyes   Las Vegas, NV
Karsten, I'll jump in by saying that this route is about 30 feet right of Soylent Greenjeans. The single bolt is visible on the blank looking face about 30 feet from the base of the route. Descend as per Soylent G. Jul 2, 2007
Karsten, you may be the first person in history to think that I *underdescribed* anything-but John's right on the money. Despite the other postings on this site, there are really two striking lines on this cliff-the logical thin, varied corner of Soylent on the left and the bolt-in-the-middle-of-nowheresville 20something feet up that: Stirling. If you're standing under the cliff; it's unmistakable. Also, if you're looking at John's beta photo, notice the diagonaling crack 2/3 of the way up that heads left towards the corner-Stirling climbs right into the bottom of this seam. Descent would be easier if you brought sling(s) to toss on whatever bit of scrub that gets you down most quickly-what I found up there was garbage, and the downclimb I did after chucking the rope down sounds like one of the FAs listed on this cliff's page. Here's to convenience bolts never tainting this area-hope that puts me near my usual 500 word count and you closer to sending this rig. Good luck! Jul 24, 2007
Josh Janes

  5.10 R
Josh Janes    
  5.10 R
The first ascent of this route was done in two pitches: First, Soylent Green Jeans was climbed to a hanging belay a little ways below the tree. From there, the FA party traversed out right across the slab to a stance and drilled the lone bolt. Wendall Broussard, one of the only members of the FA party who is still around, was adamant (ie modest) that this was not bold at all, explaining that falls were short swings, mostly on top rope, and completely safe. From there the route traverses right again, then up to the flake feature, which is then climbed to a roof, and finally on up to the top of the wall.

The photo Danny Meyers submitted illustrates this well: Taken from the hanging belay, it shows the line of the traverse out to the bolt, and Danny has continued to traverse right past the bolt and is preparing to head upwards from there.

Wendall elaborates that at the time of the FA the bold part of the route was actually pulling the final roof, which at the time was only protected by a single large cam and could result in a bad fall into the slab immediately below. Now, a tiny cam (black Alien or equivalent) makes this move significantly safer. Xavier Wasiak actually describes this sequence in a comment on Soylent Green Jeans.

Named for the British F1 race car driver - "the greatest driver never to win the world championship." May 22, 2018

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