Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Mossy Ledges Area

Barking Dog, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boldness, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
CU on Top T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cheatstone Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chocolate Sunday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coronary Bypass T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hookers and blow. T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hundred-Foot Stick Clip T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Numic Warrior T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pincushion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pussy Nuts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rapper's Disappointment T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Roberto Duran T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Secret Ingredient T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soylent Green Jeans T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stirling Moss T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: FRA: Fran Baker, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views: 1,987 total, 18/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Sep 2, 2008
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This is a delightfully improbable route. Though it looks like it might be hard and unprotected, it turns out to be quite reasonable.

Just right of the start of Hundred-Foot Stick Clip, climb a steep, varnished flake. Continue up, staying just right of a blunt arete, until you reach the left end of a large roof. After a few moves, you can step left to the bolted belay/rappel station on Hundred-Foot Stick Clip.

Location

Climb up to the ledges at the start of Coronary Bypass to a short flake just to the right of the dark headwall.

Protection

small cams

Photos

Idaho Bob
McCall, ID
  5.7
Idaho Bob   McCall, ID
  5.7
Added a sturdy quicklink to back up the two light aluminum rap rings on the anchor. Route is a little runout below the roof, but hands and feet are bomber. Apr 19, 2017
Joanna Buffalini
Las Vegas, NV
Joanna Buffalini   Las Vegas, NV
The anchors are not very obvious. About 20 feet after you come out of the roof begin looking for good feet in the darker varnish to traverse climber's left. There are black slings on bolts tucked away on the lighter colored rock. There is a narrow ledge to the right of the anchors. If you get to this ledge the anchors are way to the left. I made this mistake but it is easy to down climb from here and I actually only saw the anchors after having to go slightly above them. Other than the anchor locating experience I had an amazing time on this route. It's an awesome climb. Feb 29, 2016
Ben Townsend  
 
Excellent pitch. Replaced the old webbing on the Hundred Foot Stick Clip anchor; a slightly diagonal one-rope rappel (climber's left) reaches easy downclimbing. Apr 11, 2014