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Mossy Ledges Area Rock Climbing
Routes in Mossy Ledges Area
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Barking Dog, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Boldness, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cheatstone Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chocolate Sunday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Coronary Bypass T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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CU on Top T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Hookers and blow. T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hundred-Foot Stick Clip T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Numic Warrior T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pincushion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pussy Nuts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rapper's Disappointment T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Roberto Duran T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Secret Ingredient T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Soylent Green Jeans T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Stirling Moss T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Sugar Ray T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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| Elevation: | 4,767 ft |
| GPS: |
36.15925, -115.5009 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 28,386 total · 158/month |
| Shared By: | Larry DeAngelo on Sep 2, 2008 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc |
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This is best known as area of Soylent Green Jeans and Stirling Moss. Although there are several excellent climbs on these cliffs, they have not seen a lot of recent action. A number of bolts and old pitons in the area testify to unrecorded climbing activity over the span of decades. Most of the route names and FA details are lost to the ages, but were probably the work of the usual suspects who were active in the 70s and 80s. Kevin Lowell is also thought to have put up some of the early routes. Most of the routes in this area face to the north and are climbable in warm weather.
The general layout is as follows:
The leftmost section is the alcove with Soylent Green Jeans. This area is just around the corner to the right of the The Case Face. It is easily identifiable by the two large pine trees at the base of the cliffs. There is a rappel station immediately above CU on Top which allows descent with a single rope. A scrambling descent can be made a little further to the left. Just above the vegetated area at the top of Soylent Green Jeans, a highly featured slab leads up 150 feet to the next level. This slab can be used to approach (or descend from) the Cheatstone Crack or the Egg.
To the right of the Soylent Green Jeans alcove is a broad, featured buttress with what appears to be a huge hanging block on its right side. A smaller, mini-buttress lies against the face below and right of the hanging block.
To the right of the Hanging Block Buttress, the face becomes taller, and features some areas of good rock mixed in with some heavily moss-covered stone. Above the level of this face, the topography becomes more confused, but good climbing is to be found on the Cheatstone Crack, and historical significance on the Egg.
Descent from the upper levels is probably easiest by scrambling to a rappel from a tree atop the featured slab just above Soylent Green Jeans. From the big ledge at the top of the Hanging Block, you can rappel from either of two bolted stations, one at the top of Coronary Bypass, the other on top of Hundred-Foot Stick Clip.
The general layout is as follows:
The leftmost section is the alcove with Soylent Green Jeans. This area is just around the corner to the right of the The Case Face. It is easily identifiable by the two large pine trees at the base of the cliffs. There is a rappel station immediately above CU on Top which allows descent with a single rope. A scrambling descent can be made a little further to the left. Just above the vegetated area at the top of Soylent Green Jeans, a highly featured slab leads up 150 feet to the next level. This slab can be used to approach (or descend from) the Cheatstone Crack or the Egg.
To the right of the Soylent Green Jeans alcove is a broad, featured buttress with what appears to be a huge hanging block on its right side. A smaller, mini-buttress lies against the face below and right of the hanging block.
To the right of the Hanging Block Buttress, the face becomes taller, and features some areas of good rock mixed in with some heavily moss-covered stone. Above the level of this face, the topography becomes more confused, but good climbing is to be found on the Cheatstone Crack, and historical significance on the Egg.
Descent from the upper levels is probably easiest by scrambling to a rappel from a tree atop the featured slab just above Soylent Green Jeans. From the big ledge at the top of the Hanging Block, you can rappel from either of two bolted stations, one at the top of Coronary Bypass, the other on top of Hundred-Foot Stick Clip.
Getting There
Drive in on the main Willow Springs road. This road runs northwest until the pavement ends near the main picnic area. Just upstream from the Case Face, a small canyon branches off to the left and leads west beneath some good cliffs. Park in this area and walk across the main wash to enter the small canyon. After just a short distance you can head up the hillside to the base of the wall. A scrambling approach can also be made from the area of the Case Face.
Classic Climbing Routes at Mossy Ledges Area
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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