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Routes in Mossy Ledges Area

Barking Dog, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boldness, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
CU on Top T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cheatstone Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chocolate Sunday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coronary Bypass T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hookers and blow. T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hundred-Foot Stick Clip T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Numic Warrior T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pincushion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pussy Nuts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rapper's Disappointment T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Roberto Duran T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Secret Ingredient T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soylent Green Jeans T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stirling Moss T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,789 total, 25/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Sep 2, 2008
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

A pleasant route. This could probably be done in a single pitch if you scramble up a bit to establish your initial belay. But two pitches works out well and reduces rope drag.

Climb up and right to a belay stance beneath the right edge of the hanging block. Climb past a small overhang and continue up the varnished face to the big ledge. A bolted rap station is on the right side of this ledge.

Location

Start at the left base of the Hanging Block Buttress.

Protection

std rack

Photos

Idaho Bob
McCall, ID
  5.5
Idaho Bob   McCall, ID
  5.5
Most of this climb is 5.5, but it has some interesting features that are worth noting. Good protection on the first pitch is sparse due to horizontally fractured rock and need to avoid rope drag. Second pitch involves pulling a small roof or a delicate short traverse right of the belay. A second thin spot on this pitch is 5.5+++! Compared to, for example, Crooked Crack (5.6) in Willow Springs, much more challenging. New trad leaders be careful. May 27, 2015
raygay
Las Vegas, Nevada
  5.6
raygay   Las Vegas, Nevada
  5.6
The first pitch is easier than 5.5 and only worthwhile to gain the much more interesting second pitch which is harder than 5.5. Rapping from the top anchors down to the start of Chocolate Sunday is possible with two 60 meter ropes. Aug 14, 2010