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Routes in Sugarloaf

California Reamin' T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Flat Battery T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Heavy Charge T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hotwire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jump Start T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lieback Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Little Spark T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Magnet T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mechanic, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Power Smart T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Stairway T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Thriller Off the Void T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 374 total · 3/month
Shared By: blakeherrington on Aug 20, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details


Follow a flake and crack up and leftward, through a blocky scoop and passing abulging overhang. Small cams and nuts can be placed, but gear requires some finesse and thought. Eventually, face climbing on positive edges leads to lower-angle terrain at the top.


This route is on the Sugarloaf wall, around to the far right side. From the large group of easier climbs, head right, and just past the thin crack/seam "Thriller off the Void".


Small cams and nuts. The only "anchors" at the top are the power transformers.


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Where's Walden
Where's Walden  
A lot of fun but not a good first warmup if you are looking at getting on the area's 11's. Sep 13, 2015
Gavin W
Langley, BC
Gavin W   Langley, BC
Beautiful line, but very finicky gear placements. Bring multiples of small cams, I took a 15-footer onto a #0 C3 right before I gave up on my attempt. Aug 6, 2016
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
You can get a 'nest' of two to three finger cams right before the little run on the face. None are spectacular, but I felt solid above three of them.

Fun little route. Only strenuous for a few moves, and the face up high is probably not the crux. Aug 13, 2016

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