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Routes in Sugarloaf

California Reamin' T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Flat Battery T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Heavy Charge T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hotwire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jump Start T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lieback Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Little Spark T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Magnet T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mechanic, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Power Smart T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Stairway T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Thriller Off the Void T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 360 total · 3/month
Shared By: blakeherrington on Aug 20, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Follow a flake and crack up and leftward, through a blocky scoop and passing abulging overhang. Small cams and nuts can be placed, but gear requires some finesse and thought. Eventually, face climbing on positive edges leads to lower-angle terrain at the top.

Location [Suggest Change]

This route is on the Sugarloaf wall, around to the far right side. From the large group of easier climbs, head right, and just past the thin crack/seam "Thriller off the Void".

Protection [Suggest Change]

Small cams and nuts. The only "anchors" at the top are the power transformers.


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Where's Walden
Where's Walden  
A lot of fun but not a good first warmup if you are looking at getting on the area's 11's. Sep 13, 2015
Gavin W
Langley, BC
Gavin W   Langley, BC
Beautiful line, but very finicky gear placements. Bring multiples of small cams, I took a 15-footer onto a #0 C3 right before I gave up on my attempt. Aug 6, 2016
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
You can get a 'nest' of two to three finger cams right before the little run on the face. None are spectacular, but I felt solid above three of them.

Fun little route. Only strenuous for a few moves, and the face up high is probably not the crux. Aug 13, 2016

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