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Routes in Sugarloaf

California Reamin' T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Flat Battery T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Heavy Charge T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hotwire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jump Start T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lieback Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Little Spark T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Magnet T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mechanic, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Power Smart T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Stairway T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Thriller Off the Void T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Royal Robbins (!) , Jim Sinclair 1971
Page Views: 653 total, 5/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Aug 12, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Description

The Bourdon guide unaccountably designates this pleasant pitch a super classic. Far easier in the grade than the nearby Block and Tackle.

On the north side of Sugarloaf, climb left facing corner with a wide crack. Pull up onto the face and climb an 80+ degree face with some fingerlocks past three bolts; the crux moves between bolts two and three are pretty easy if you identify the footholds before launching into the sequence. Belay off the power tower.

Location

On the north side of Sugarloaf.

Protection

Three bolts, maybe and nut or two and a #3 and/or #4 Camalot for the start.

Photos

Raddam6
Salt Lake
 
Raddam6   Salt Lake
 
I thought it was great. Definitely easier than block and tackle. It deserves 3 stars though, people are probably just blasting it because they fell at the crux and are butthurt. Sep 13, 2015
Top roped by Royal Robbins, equipped and led by Dave Lane with two bolts, third lower "chicken bolt" added during retro bolting, this section protected adequately with a medium RP. May 8, 2010