Elevation: 582 ft
GPS: 49.646, -123.206 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 19,396 total · 136/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Apr 29, 2007 with updates from Tim Bonnell
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn
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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

This very popular crag offers two different faces to the world. A south side with six routes from 5.4 to 5.8, combined with access to the top and bolted anchors, guarantees that you will not be alone here if you can find a free climb at all. A great place to learn to climb or lead trad. The north side has much harder and more interesting climbing. Again, the access to the top ensures that there are often top-ropes on these although most are good leads.

Getting There

From the Murrin Park parking lot, head up the trail found a few car widths right of the outhouses. After a few minutes of uphill forest you'll pop out into a clearing and the wall will be obvious on your right.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sugarloaf

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 40
Magnet
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 29
Lieback Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 19
Power Smart
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Magnet
 40
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
Lieback Crack
 29
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad
Power Smart
 19
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Sugarloaf »

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Daniel Bookless
Portland, OR
Daniel Bookless   Portland, OR
8/14/16: heads up there arent any rap rings or even chains at the top of some of these routes; just two standard sport hangers (NOT metolius rap hangers). I opted to down climb which was rather enjoyable. However if you intend to rap bring some quick links or figure out a way to walk off. Aug 18, 2016