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Routes in Sugarloaf

California Reamin' T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Flat Battery T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Heavy Charge T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hotwire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jump Start T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lieback Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Little Spark T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Magnet T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mechanic, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Power Smart T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Stairway T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Thriller Off the Void T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 64 total, 2/month
Shared By: Mark van Eijk on Aug 20, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Description

Starts in the "hole" as for Hot Wire but immediately busts right by way of a tough boulder problem to a thin crack. The climbing above is fun and technical, with excellent movement on great rock. Eventually meanders right to join up with Stairway.

Location

On the north side of the sugarloaf, climber's right if hiking up from the parking lot. Look for the chalked-up basalt hueco. This route climbs up through the large, triangular alcove.

Protection

Small nuts and cams. A tiny nut and green C3 protect the boulder problem. Nothing larger than a #0.5 camalot is needed. Gear is very good, but is often strenuous to place.

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