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Routes in Sugarloaf

California Reamin' T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Flat Battery T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Heavy Charge T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hotwire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jump Start T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lieback Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Little Spark T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Magnet T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mechanic, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Power Smart T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Stairway T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Thriller Off the Void T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 77 total · 2/month
Shared By: Mark van Eijk on Aug 20, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details

Description [Edit]

Starts in the "hole" as for Hot Wire but immediately busts right by way of a tough boulder problem to a thin crack. The climbing above is fun and technical, with excellent movement on great rock. Eventually meanders right to join up with Stairway.

Location [Edit]

On the north side of the sugarloaf, climber's right if hiking up from the parking lot. Look for the chalked-up basalt hueco. This route climbs up through the large, triangular alcove.

Protection [Edit]

Small nuts and cams. A tiny nut and green C3 protect the boulder problem. Nothing larger than a #0.5 camalot is needed. Gear is very good, but is often strenuous to place.

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