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Routes in Sugarloaf

California Reamin' T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Flat Battery T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Heavy Charge T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hotwire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jump Start T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lieback Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Little Spark T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Magnet T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mechanic, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Power Smart T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Stairway T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Thriller Off the Void T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Les McDonald, et al., 1965
Page Views: 3,572 total · 26/month
Shared By: kBobby Hanson on May 23, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details

Description [Suggest Change]

At the far right-hand edge of the South Wall is a steep corner with a flake on the left, followed by a wide crack.

Go up this to a great hand crack above.

Without big gear, the wide section is very runout. However, the climbing is easy, past mantles on the right. A groundfall is possible here without gear to 6 inches (or more). Large gear would eliminate the "R" from this route. It is good either way.

The crux is right off the ground (unless you decide to throw yourself INTO the wide crack instead of opting for the mantles).

Protection [Suggest Change]

Pro to 3.5 inches, or to 6 inches (or more). Requires a GEAR ANCHOR on top. Walk off straight back along the right-hand edge of the cliff.

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Mark van Eijk
  5.7 PG13
Mark van Eijk  
  5.7 PG13
Really fun route, perhaps under appreciated IMO. The first few moves are a total blast and lead to a great ledge for placing a few bomber pieces before the runout. Don't worry, this section is easy enough that a groundfall is pretty much out of the question. The crux protects beautifully with red and green camalots and from there it's a lark. No need to lieback, the crack is wonderful to jam. Sep 2, 2011

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